Update Thank you for all the comments below. I've tried to include as many tips and fail safes you have mentioned, in this post. I do recommend people read the comments as I may have missed some.
Firstly, thank you to this excellent community my PC is now built and working (pics to come in another post). I thought here are some lessons I learnt in building the PC, researching and other bits I thought would be worth sharing, as a lot of this I never had even heard about. Some will be obvious and others less so. I should note, that I'm not a pro or someone who does this regularly, just someone who spent a while reading around, so feel free to correct/highlight any mistakes, and I'll try to update the post. The descriptions, aren't really meant to be a full lesson about each part and will be lacking a lot of detail, but are more a jumping board for further reading if anyone is interested. For full information on building a PC I highly recommend looking around on YouTube and other sources.
If I get anything wrong, please correct me and I'll update.
On Monitors:

If you are after 144Hz 1440p gaming, use a Display Port (DP) cable, not a HDMI, if you can. As you could be hampering your refresh rate, (https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/features/displayport-vs-hdmi-better-for-gaming) Update Although you could be fine if you are using HDMI 2.1, see link for more details
Freesync vs Gsync. For simplicity, both these technologies aim to match performance on screen with your GPU. Freesync works with Radeon, GSync with NVidia (although some Freesync monitors will be GSync compatible, likewise for the otherway around). It's complicated and due to changes in the standards over the years it can vary from monitor to monitor. Make sure to do research on the specific monitor you're wanting to get/have. If you are buying a new monitor keep this in mind. https://www.viewsonic.com/library/entertainment/g-sync-vs-free-sync-explained UpdateAccording to comments freesync monitors will almost always work with Nvidia. As always, do read around about it.
Windows by default is set to have a refresh rate of 60Hz, if you have a higher spec monitor you can change this to match your monitor in "Advanced Display settings".

RAM (All except point 1 was completely new to me)

2 Sticks of 8GB Ram will perform better than 1 stick of 16GB Ram (https://techguided.com/single-channel-vs-dual-channel-vs-quad-channel/). Also when installing them, put them in the correct channels, check your Motherboard for details.
Your motherboard will prefer your dual channel RAM to be in specific slots. I had an issue where I couldn't get the maximum performance of my RAM which I had placed in slots 1 and 3, but the moment I put them in 2 and 4 it worked perfectly. Check your motherboard manual.
Enable XMP in Bios (This might also be called DOCP or A-XMP). This will vary between motherboards, but if you don't your 3200MHz ram is likely running a lot slower. In my build, XMP wouldn't work till I put the RAM in the correct channels, hope this saves someone the hours I spent finding this out ;) Update You can use Task manager to verify you have done this correctly. 3b. Someone pointed this out XMP may void your CPU's processor (https://community.amd.com/t5/processors/xmp-profile-ram-3200-mhz-and-amd-warranty-policy-for-ryzen/td-p/145798) (https://community.intel.com/t5/Processors/XMP-Warranty-void/td-p/1196241). If anyone knows any more, please message me directly so I can add the details. This was mentioned by someone in the comments and I would rather pass the information and ask you to do your own checking as well.
When picking RAM, frequency matters, but so does CAS Latency. You want high frequency but low CAS (CL) latency. I'd recommend doing more reading about it, if you want to know more I'd recommend doing some more reading, but the "true latency" can be calculated as TL = CL * 2000/Freq. E.g. CL 18 3600Mhz Ram has a TL of 10ns. Update Someone who actually knows what they are talking about found point (4) confusing if not perhaps misguided and I recommend you read their post here (https://www.reddit.com/buildapc/comments/kis9r5/lessons_i_learnt_the_longhard_way_so_you_dont/ggtdudd?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
Ensure the speed of the RAM is compatible with the board you are looking to purchase (or visa versa).
Motherboards will have Qualified Vendor Lists, listing RAM they have tested and certified to work. This may be worth looking at. Just because your RAM isn't on the list doesn't mean it won't work, or won't overclock, it just means it hasn't been certified to, so do take this into consideration. (I found this in my build, while it was from Crucial and some Crucial RAM was on the QVL, mine wasn't. Thankfully it was fine.)

Motherboards

Newer processors (e.g. at time of writing many AMD motherboards require a bios update for the 5000 series AMD CPU) may require you to install a new BIOS before they can be detected. Not all motherboards can have their bios updated without a CPU installed. When shopping for your motherboard looking to see if it does USB Bios flashback should be considered. This was completely new to me and glad I learnt it in time.*Addition* Newer motherboards don't require bios updates and so won't need this feature, though you will have to check.
Different mother boards are compatible with different CPUs, pick your CPU first
CPU coolers may need different mountings depending on the CPU. When picking your cooler keep this in mind, you may need to ensure there is an adaptor. Additions from the comments
Not all mother boards have connectors for front IO USB-C. If this is important to you and part of your case, it's worth looking into.
Using an M.2 usually disables some of your SATA ports. If you are planning on using all your SATA ports, make sure to check to see if this happens and how it happens on your chosen mother board.
Some motherboards are built with Debug LEDs now that will help you diagnose problems.
If you are after RGB effects, ensure your motherboard is compatible with the effects you want to add. There are 5V and 12V headers, so make sure they match. I'd recommend looking into this more yourself, as I've likely vastly oversimplified. (https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?110272-What-do-5v-and-12v-RGB-cables-look-like-you-ask#:%7E:text=You%20can%20also%20see%20the,as%20shown%20on%20these%20photos)

CPU

Some CPU's have integrated graphics. If you don't want to buy a dedicated graphics card, you need to purchase one of these CPU's. You then plug your monitor into the motherboard.
CPU's have a Thermal Design Power, if you are not using the stock cooler read up on it (https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/reviews/tdp-thermal-design-power-definition,5764.html)

Component compatibility

Make sure all your components are compatible. PC Part Picker (https://pcpartpicker.com/) is generally pretty good at this. If uncertain, this is a wonderful community to ask.

Power supply

PC Part Picker gives you a good idea as to how much power your system will need, if not check the graphics card you intend to buy. Not all machines need a 1000W behemoth. Picking the right one will save you money
Power supplies come with a rating standard e.g. Bronze+ etc..., this is basically their efficiency. (https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/news/what-80-plus-levels-mean,36721.html). I think it's safe to suggest people should at least go for Bronze.
Make sure your PSU fits in your case. I bought an ATX PSU, then decided on the 011 Dynamic Mini case, only realise it needed a SFX (smaller) PSU. I ended up going for a different case. Likewise an SFX PSU may not have the cable length you need or fit as snuggly in an ATX case (source: comments section)
Look into the build quality of the PSU. A faulty PSU can cause serious issues down the line, so it is worth taking time look at PSU Tier lists and review. (Link provided by several commenters https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/)

Tools (OP Note: I've only tried Ninite)

Ninite (https://ninite.com/) Is an easy way to download all the basic programs one tends to install onto a fresh Windows install, without having to go to 10-15 websites. E.g. you can select to install Chrome, Zoom, Steam, OpenOffice all from one installer. If you keep the install, it can also be re-run to update all the software in one swoop.
Patch My PC (https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/patch_my_pc.html) Patches software on your PC (Thank you to the sys admin in the comments for this.)
Chocolatey (https://chocolatey.org/) A powerful command line way to install and upgrade software.

Storage

M2 drives can be SATA or NVMe, NVMe is faster. (M2 drives are generally plugged directly into the mother board, for anyone who until recently was using a hard disk drive and considered SSDs "fancy")
I highly recommend reading this comment (https://www.reddit.com/buildapc/comments/kis9r5/lessons_i_learnt_the_longhard_way_so_you_dont/ggtn00w/?context=3) as it contains stuff I was unaware of.

Case

If your case has bottom intake or exhaust vents, don't put it directly on carpet, as it can block the air flow. (Yup....I did need to be told this ^_^, my previous computer just didn't have any bottom intake, hell it hardly had any intake).
Make sure your mother board, PSU, GPU and all your components fit in the case. This is particularly worth noting if you are going for a micro ATX or a ITX case. Worth noting is to remember to include fans + GPU length, any additional length caused by radiators (if you water cool), the size of your CPU cooler (if you air cool) Additions from the comments
When considering your case, if you are water cooling, "Room for 2x 140mm fans does not always mean room for a radiator as well". Make sure to double check the clearance. Measure twice buy once.

Advice on building (Notes and horror stories from the comments) 1. Many new coolers come with pre-applied thermal paste. If yours doesn't don't forget to apply it, to the CPU (See videos by people with more experience/knowledge than me on what to do). 2. Remember your mother board I/O shield (advice from the comments about making sure to put it in before you install the motherboard, mine came with it attached). 3. Make sure the CPU is correctly installed before you clasp it down. 4. If your motherboard has two slots to install a GPU. One of them (normally the top) will provide better performance. Make sure to use the correct one. 5. Make sure your CPU cooler doesn't block a RAM slot. In making my PC the AMD wraith has a notch on one side with the AMD logo, thankfully I put the RAM in first, so I swiftly learnt that I had to rotate the cooler 180 degrees to get it to fit. 6. If you can avoid it, do not build your computer on carpet (and do not stand on carpet when building) and be aware of static when building. If this is your first build, do some reading around this. Wear a static bracelet and attach it to something grounded. 7. Remember if you have a dedicated graphics card. Plug your monitor into the graphics card, not the motherboard. 8. If you are installing fans, make sure they are in the correct direction. 9. When playing the radiator of your AIO (if you are using one) make sure part of it is higher than the pump (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGomv195sk) 10. It's often worth the time to read the motherboard manual. 11. This may sound silly, but cables and the sockets on the PSU are often labelled. Be aware of this, it will help you in the build.
More subjective advice

I've been recommend by numerous people to go for Gold+ PSUs, with often being stated that while its more efficient, it will also be better made. Your budget may dictate otherwise. If you look through the comments you will frequently find the advice "don't cheap out on the PSU and go for at least Gold"
For most users if your CPU comes with a stock cooler. It will be good enough. You can always change it later. If your planning to overclock, you likely know more than me, so feel free to ignore. Update According to the comments, AMD stock coolers tend to be considered good enough, Intel, not so much.
A LOT of people below have said "Do not mix cables from different PSU manufacturers." as they are not universal. I don't know anything about this, so do some additional reading if you are considering doing so. Update From further comments this is something to take serious. Update from further comments, the word of advice is "Do your research before using cables not supplied with the PSU you are using."

Further notes from the comments: Below are points I've read in the comments that might be worth drawing to people attention. Please read around the topic if it applies to you. 1. One person has said XMP causes their Oculus Rift to do weird things.
Hope this helps some people. Addition I recommend reading the comments, as many people have put in their own tips/horror stories ;)
Take care all and Merry Christmas.

A Bow Guide - For all Levels

Here are some tips for those of you who are starting out with bows, or maybe wanting to learn more about them, from someone who has over 31,000 crucible final blows with them over the course of the 2 or so years that they've been in the game.If there's something I've missed, I'd like to know in the comments so that I can add it to the post, or at the least to my own knowledge.
In general, there are standard rolls that are perfect for lightweight and precision frame bows.
Lightweights have a few more options for you, and it depends on how you are using them.
The only thing that persists across all of the bows is that you're aiming for Fiberglass Arrowshaft as your second column perk - this is because of the effect to the accuracy stat.

Accuracy and Stability

Accuracy is to increase the length of the aim assist cone, and be able to hit shots easier at a distance, and the stability stat is to keep the cone from expanding as much in the air, and to help you deal with close quarters, mid range, hip fire and fast firing engagements.
The recoil direction actually depicts which side your bow is likely to land after firing a shot, so counterbalance mods may have a small effect here

Lightweights

The String and Masterwork

The string and masterwork are very much tied together on these frames, and it depends on what you're going for.
There's a draw time cap of 540 on lightweight frames (even the perk archers tempo only reduces this to around 536) - If you have Elastic String, I would recommend an Accuracy Masterwork, however, you can get away with a Reload Masterwork if you have Moving Target, or another accuracy increasing perk available. For the strings with a higher draw time, you'll want a draw time masterwork almost every time. If you're wanting handling, go with Flexible String - It's an absolutely solid choice on the Arsenic Bite, but if you want to increase your accuracy, Polymer String is the play.

Precision Frames

The String and Masterwork

You're always going to want Elastic String on these frames. Choose between a Draw Time or a Reload Masterwork.
I personally prefer the Draw Time of 576, over the reload bonus, which can be catered to with mods and exotics

Legendary Damage Numbers and Perks

Draw Type	Precision	Lightweight
No Draw Body	↓ 61	↑ 71
Quarter Draw Body	↓ 67	↑ 76
Half Draw Body	↑ 91	↓ 81
Full Draw Body	↑ 101	↓ 86
Over Draw Body	↑ 95	↓ 84
No Draw Precision	↓ 91	↑ 113
Quarter Draw Precision	↓ 100	↑ 121
Half Draw Precision	↓ 109	↑ 129
Full Draw Precision	↑ 152	↓ 138
Over Draw Precision	↑ 143	↓ 134

Explosive Heads will take half of the damage from the original arrow and put it into a blast radius, instead of being a flat damage number - this means that the more you draw back, the more your explosion will do. This can range from 31-51 (precision frames) and 35-43 (lightweights).Note: Explosive Heads themselves are unaffected by Rampage, Swashbuckler and other damage related perks.
Rampage on precision frames will 1 tap at 3x, or at 1x with most other damage buffs. On lightweights it's used to up the weapon consistency. 2 bodyshots with 1x rampage will kill 4th tier resil and less, and 2x will double body any guardian.
Dragonfly will do around 49-56 damage while I was testing, and when you add dragonfly spec, it increases to 95.
Swashbuckler is quite possibly the most broken damage perk on bows. Pair with a damage buffing melee (or any other damage buff) on lightweights to one shot kill (before the buff it will do 183 to the head at x5). Precision Frames will deal 202 on a perfect draw at x5, killing every guardian.
Rapid Hit is pretty much a dead perk if you have bow reloader, as it will go up to around x3 before it stops having an effect. If you have anything else that enhances reload speed (ophidian aspects come to mind as a great one) then it really becomes useless.
Archers Tempo is a risky perk to have. You'll want it on a bow with a draw time that is greater than its archetypes minimum to get any noticeable effect out of it, but if you feel like you need more accuracy and prefer a longer draw because of that, then this will be the perk for you. I’ll be trying to get some more numbers for this over the next week or so.
Moving Target and Surplus are two neutral perks that are fantastic. If you use your abilities often, I'd go with moving target, but a heart of inmost light titan or someone more conservative with their abilities may prefer surplus.
Snapshot Sights is a great perk on bows, and will give you a good transition point if you're used to Le Mon's ADS speed.
Opening Shot is a fantastic perk if you're having issues with the accuracy (perhaps you don't have Fiberglass in the second column) - and even if you do, this will make your shots crisp as all hell at a distance.
Killing Wind is absolutely a fantastic perk to go for, and going for Natural Fletching instead of Fiberglass can be recommended in this case, as the stability + the extra weapon aim assist range will doubly effect the accuracy cone
Sympathetic Arsenal is the archers auto loading holster, meaning you can use your killing capacity to reload that machine gun in PvE, or the quickdraw fusion in your back pocket in PvP. Don’t sleep on the pairing with fighting lion either, double dipping for consistency on the thin the herd playstyle, always having your heavy loaded
Firmly Planted is an interesting one, as it will increase accuracy, stability and aim down sights speed while crouched - this also procs on slides - and drawing back your arrow at the start of a slide will mean it’s drawn by the time you’ve finished, the whole time, your arrows will be more sticky

Lightweight Frames

A no draw headshot and no draw body shot will kill at 2nd tier resil, but a quarter draw is needed above that for 1 of the arrows - preferably the head to cover most resilience tiers, but a body should cover 6th tier and less.

Precision Frames

You're gonna need to flick shot the head twice at a quarter draw or more, or fully draw and hit the head before you can flickshot an arrow into someones body. Note: A guardian at max resilience will survive the double quarter draw flick approach
You can also body shot and melee with this build with no buffs in a perfect draw (max resil) or an overdraw (6th tier or lower)

Exotic Damage Numbers

Draw Type	Le Monarque	Trinity Ghoul	Wishender	Leviathans Breath
No Draw Body	61	21x3	61+30	51
Quarter Draw Body	67	23x3	65+30	100
Half Draw Body	91	25x3	68+30	143
Full Draw Body	101+24	35x3	72+30	343
Over Draw Body	95	33x3	71+30	300
No Draw Precision	91	31x3	109+30	91
Quarter Draw Precision	100	34x3	116+30	159
Half Draw Precision	109	37x3	122+31	228
Full Draw Precision	152+24	52x3	129+30	548
Over Draw Precision	143	49x3	126+30	479

Vorpal Weapon (Precision Frame) Damage Numbers

Super	Head	Body
Goldie	181	121
Chaos Reach	145	97
Blade Barrage	124	83
Well of Radiance	121	81
Daybreak	119	79
Hammers	119	79
Nova Warp	119	79
Shadebinder	119	79
Spectral Blades	117	78
Sentinel	114	76
Striker	114	76
Arc Staff	114	76
Burning Maul	114	76
Thundercrash	114	76
Tether (while tethering)	114	76
Revenant	114	76
Spectral Blades (Invis)	111	74
Behemoth	97	65

The Reticle and Draw Length

⊙ | | | - This is what the reticle looks like when you aren't drawn back (well, this is sideways, but you get the idea) - when you draw back your arrow, the bottom lines will be accurate for a quarter draw and the lines will get closer together past the half draw mark to keep accurately representing the flight distance - ⊙||| - before disappearing entirely when you're fully drawn back and you no longer have to lead your target - ⊙
If you're sprinting towards a target, tap/pull back in the opposite direction to be able to get that reticle back (same as every weapon in destiny) so you can judge the distance to draw time and actually start drawing back your bow without having a small delay or whiff entirely because of it cancelling your sprint instead of drawing
When you're aimed down sights, there is a line at the bottom of the reticle, that will be accurate up to around 15 and 20 meters before you have to judge additional falloff height (precision and lightweight no-draw ranges respectively) this distance will increase the longer that you draw.

Draw Type	Precision	Lightweight	Line
No Draw	↓ 12m	↑ 18m	Bottom
Quarter Draw	↑ 24m	↓ 20m	Middle
Half Draw	↑ 31m	↓ 25m	Top

Full draws and near perfect draws will tend towards being on target to the center of the reticle - and it's just about practice (note, when I'm using quarters and halves, it's more about where the string is drawn back visually, rather than how long you've been drawing back, as that depends on what string you have).
The lower draws can be effective, but they do require learning of how your draw time effects the flight path and where you have to release your shot to get the best accuracy - if you want to rely more on flick shots and getting your accuracy down, you could go for a higher draw time lightweight frame to train with before increasing the draw time when you’re able to judge your shots better.
A perfect draw isn't when the bow starts glowing, there's about an 8 frame window just before where the arrow will release silently and do full damage. That's the perfect draw.

Builds

Get Down Mr President

Biting Winds with Swashbuckler
Insurmountable Skull Fort on Top Tree Striker

Simply shoulder charge your way to 1 tap headshots

But I am the shotgun...

One Two Punch shotgun in your kinetic slot
Liars Handshakes
Top Tree Arc Strider
Trinity Ghoul

Shoot with the shotgun, 1 down, punch the next, 2 down, dodge and switch to Trinity Ghoul, punch again, 3 down, shoot the floor with trinity and carry on punching... FANTASTIC WORK You now have all of the combination blow, so just trinity the floor and punch away

Thomas the Siege Engine

Khepri's Horn
Deafening Whisper
Whispering Slab with Swashbuckler
Sunspot Titan with Thermite Grenades

I'm not sure if this one even needs explaining - but when you make a sunspot, stand in it and have swashbuckler, you'll one tap

Wrath of Cupid

Top Tree Dawn
Karnstein Armlets
Biting Winds with Swash

Like with the first build, except you can deliver the punch down the hallway heal from it, pop heat rises for perfect in air accuracy and kills to get your melee back to start the entire process again

Corrosive Sting

Le Monarque
Khepri's Sting
Middle Tree Night Stalker

Invis when you're crouching and get that precision final blow, poison clouds everywhere and the ability to melee yourself out of most situations, this will be the build for you if you like watching your opponents suffer in their final moments. Also, note, if you hit someones face with your smoke from a distance and they stay in the cloud, they're probably going to die from that alone

A Hunger For Wishes

Blink Devour Warlock
Autoloading Holster Demolitionist Truth Teller
Wishender
Felwinters Helm

You can see through walls, you can bounce grenades off of walls, you can no draw bodyshot guardians and clean them up with a melee to heal and you can debuff the surrounding enemies with a fully charged melee. I don’t even know what the damage numbers are on regular guardians on a full draw, it doesn’t display, it just deletes and you heal. Run alongside your favourite behemoth buddy for their tectonic harvest for the best results
Edit
I’m going to start working on a PvE post like this, as there will be a lot more damage numbers - I hope that you don’t mind waiting until next season for it though

After completing my build last week I want to share the story of all the mistakes I made so you can avoid them

I ended up building a computer at the end of 2020 after years of window shopping for prebuilts that I probably would have regretted purchasing. I'm not new to pc gaming as I have a gaming laptop that's approaching 4 or so years old with a little over 1 TB of storage. With the laptop aging and with me wanting a more robust device for music production, VR, and possibly even streaming I decided around July that I probably wanted a desktop that was more capable than my laptop. I knew a little bit about computers but really immersed myself to learn as much as I could. I went from almost seriously considering an Alienware desktop back in July (eww) to taking seriously parts sourcing and looking at builders like VRLA and Redux who seemed to at the very least be transparent about what they were putting into their systems. When I realized there were a few custom things I wanted (massive amounts of storage, Vive wireless vr adapter) I said "f- it" because I was going to have to open up any build I'd purchase from one of these guys to add all the stuff I wanted.
The actual building process was simultaneously less and more involved than I initially thought. It took me 3 days (Dec 25-28) and over 12 hours from opening up my motherboard's box and flashing my BIOS to turning on my computer for the first time. It was also a little stressful since slotting some of my components was more difficult to do than I initially believe. Regardless, despite the somewhat clumsy nature I went about this process, the build worked like a charm and I'm writing this post from the computer. Anyway, I want to go over the highlights to help new builders optimize their process.
Purchasing components
This is an admittedly dumb and stupid mistake but outside of the general research I did to understand building and some rudimentary knowledge of some of this year's newest components PCPartPicker was what I leveraged for information about stock and pricing. This generally isn't a huge deal but with prices being so volatile in 2020 (especially around the last quarter of the year) it means that I overpayed for some things. There were parts, like my 3080 that I was somewhat willing to do this for, but I had no idea how much above MSRP I'd ultimately paid for my Ryzen 5 5600x until it was too late. Here are the the biggest lessons I learned:
Compare across multiple sites. The fact that I didn't know MSRP for my CPU was my fault and honestly if I wasn't using PCPartPicker as my only point of reference I would have known better. And even then, if I'd looked closely at the historical pricing section of the site I'd understand that the prices being given to me at the time weren't necessarily MSRP. This point is more or less also one that is meant to remind everyone to understand the breadth and scope of the tools they're using for research. It didn't help that I was making these decisions in the second and third weeks of December trying to build by Christmas. Last minute decision making can lead to bad decisions.
Give yourself enough time. Kind of bleeding over from the last point, if you have to (or want to) build by a certain deadline, make sure you give yourself enough time. Not only to understand how to build and how computer components work together, but also time to understand price to performance differences between any components you're comparing. And for any of you trying to build soon, I'd caution unless you absolutely need to you just to wait until mid-spring/summer as the selection of parts is set to improve substantially.
Don't get caught up in the hype. With the hype cycle surrounding this year's newest components it was very easy to fall into this. I suppose this was less of an issue for me because my budget had flex room, but all the same no one really seeks to spend as much as they possibly can when building (at least I hope). Initially in my build I'd allotted up to $400 for my CPU and was going to settle on getting a Ryzen 7 3800 with the hope of upgrading down the line. Deep down though, because of the hype surrounding Ryzen 5000 I wasn't satisfied with that, so at the first chance of getting one of these newer chips, I took it without thinking. It was a Ryzen 5600x (with stock cooler) for $445. I thought it was a good deal because a the time I mistakenly believed MSRP was $399. While $445 is cheaper than some CPUs, even Intel gen 10 chips, if I decide to upgrade I'll spend more over the life of my build. And for just a bit more if I'd gone with Intel I could have gotten an i7 or i9 for slightly better performance in gaming.
You'll always learn something that will give you buyers regret. After I paid nearly $300 above MSPR for my 3080 the rumors of 3080TIs became louder. The Ryzen 5000 series will likely be the last of the AM4 chipset so I'm wondering if I should have just gone with Intel anyway. But at the end of the day I take pride in the build I have created and will put my lessons to use if I decide to do another build in the future.
Building: Day 1
I was overprepared in the sense that I had a lot of things I ultimately didn't use. Antistatic gloves, for example, which I ended up ditching pretty quickly because the material kept getting caught on the underside of my mobo which freaked me the hell out. Just purchase an antistatic workspace or an antistatic brace and that'll be enough. I ultimately ended up building on my mobo's box while wearing an antistatic brace grounded to my PSU.
In day one all I really only manged to flash the bios on my MSI X570 Tomahawk with a USB. It took me an hour to realize that although my 24 ATX and cpu power were connected on my mobo that the PSU and mobo wouldn't turn on until I pressed the "flash bios" button with a pen. I initially thought my PSU was defective and wasted a lot of time. After making Christmas dinner I then installed my case fans and rbg halos which also took me over an hour because I apparently didn't understand how fan screws worked... there's not much to say here other than that I'm an idiot (-_-).
Day 2
The bulk of the building took place during day 2. I actually touched the mobo and installed the CPU and other components and put it into the case. One mistake I made early on was installing my CPU before confirming if the heat sink I wanted to use (Cooler Master 212 black) had its own plate. It most definitely did, and so I had to carefully remove the CPU I'd seated and put thermal paste on and place it elsewhere until I was ready to reseat it. The entire process was painful as Cooler Master's instructions were terrible and for about an hour I was under the impression that my motherboard would snap as I struggled to tighten the heatsink. I also struggled to put the cooler fan on the heatsink as the directions for the CPU fan clips were also abysmal. This video really saved me at a point were I thought I'd give up on the build. Nothing else of note happened other than my ram fell out the first time I placed my case upright because I didn't seat it properly.
Day 3
Most of day 3 was mostly installing my graphics card and cables. One thing I learned was since the graphics card was so big and chunky and since it obstructed my view of the slot I was trying to place it in, it's easier to install it while the case is up right. I actually almost nearly scratched my mobo and my M2 drive with my graphics card while trying to align it. I also had to remove my gpu after I'd successfully installed it to clear a path for my exhaust fan cables. It was at this point I'd actually broke the latch in the PCIe slot holding the graphics card because I didn't check if it was still secure. It broke cleanly so I was able to put the latch back into the slot okay.
As for the cabling, that took me over 4 hours because I eagerly began plugging my front panel cables and fans in, only to realize after I installed my PSU that these cables were obstructing where my ATX cables would be coming in.
Once my cables were nearly done, I saw that one of my motherboard screws was missing. A missing screw isn't a big deal, but I couldn't account for where I might have lost it because I distinctly remembered using every mobo screw. I was freaked out because there was a possibility it was in my case, behind my motherboard. But I was so close to finishing that I didn't want to take out my motherboard just for one freaking screw. After 30 mins of retracing my process I resigned myself to removing my mobo out of caution. I undid the cabling I'd started (I was about halfway done). After undoing the 5th screw I started hearing a rattling in my case and after shaking the case the missing screw pops out. I guess loosening my motherboard from some of the standoffs gave the lost screw enough room to roll away. I had no idea it fell in there but I'm glad I caught that before turning my system on.
About an hour later all systems were go. I'm not happy with my cable management but it's good enough. The only other thing that gave me trouble was the RGB in my system. This is mainly because Phanteks isn't very transparent about the types of adapters needed to power its 12V ARGB halos, but after buying their stupid adapter a day later I have glowing fans.
Reflection
One of the biggest things I learned was that it's important to map out the building process step-by-step. I think I ended up redoing things like cabling because while I had a high level understanding of the building process I wasn't really thinking through my next move as I completed each step. But all in all, while I had some difficulties, I'm ultimately proud of myself for doing this and I'm absolutely in love with my machine. I sadly haven't gotten much time to really put my build to the test. I have a few people asking me about temps. Hopefully in the next two weeks I can test that during a dedicated gaming session.
Anyway, while I still don't think building is for everyone, I do recommend that anyone looking for a computer (esp a gaming computer) at least understand computer parts and how they work together so that they actually know what it is they're getting when they go to a builder. To this end, you should probably watch a bunch of computer building videos as if you were going to build and use that knowledge to inform what you buy. Still, regardless of whether or not you go with a builder you shouldn't be afraid of building. As you can probably tell from my story the building process is a lot more forgiving than newbies (myself included) might initially think. You don't have to be a handy person to build. I most certainly am not. I actually struggled to put together the table I built my computer on literally the night before I started building my PC.
For anyone who is on the verge of getting ready to build I've created a YouTube playlist of vids that helped me build as well as my own video featuring my build and my own tips. Let me know if you have any questions.

R/Bujo’s Top Tips on How to Plan When You Have Severe Depression/Impaired Functioning

Hey! So, after the amazing response I got on this post detailing my struggle with planning while severely depressed, I decided to use some extra energy I’ve been having to condense all the answers I got into a master list for easy reference. I was initially just going to make and keep this but then decided that it might be useful to share in case you

didn’t see the initial post and feel this info would help to you, or
did see the post but didn’t have energy or time to read through all the responses.

Feel free to browse the list and see what may work for you if you are in a similar spot.
Things to note:

Some of the advice given here seems to contradict itself (e.g., DO use habit and mood trackers, DON’T use habit and mood trackers) simply because multiple people gave their perspective and some of the things that worked well for some didn’t for others.
I didn’t reference spreads unique to particular people and just focused on the general trends in suggestions – if you want to see descriptions/images of those unique spreads, I’d encourage you to read the original post.
This advice was in the context of my particular situation (which again, you can refer to here) so it might not work for you if you are in a different situation and have different constraints.
Lastly, if you have any ideas that you feel aren’t listed, mention them in the comments. Thank you again for all the support, and enjoy!

WHAT TO FOCUS ON

Prioritize celebrating what you do get done with Done Lists/Tada lists instead of just To Do lists!

Consider ditching traditional habit trackers if you feel they discourage you. If you engage in a positive habit, mark it down! Then you’ll have a total of all the times you did do something instead of a tracker with glaring reminders of when you didn’t.
Aside from habits, write at least one thing you did today, no matter how small (e.g., drank a glass of water)

Track goals in a way that shows what progress you have made even if you didn’t reach the goal

E.g. If your goal was to get to inbox 0, write down the number of emails you did get through even if you didn’t reach 0. Acknowledge progress!

Focus less on productivity or SMART goal setting, and more on taking care of yourself and tasks that contribute to/maintain functioning.

Once you have reached a baseline of functioning again, add goals and tasks outside of this
Have a basic list of tasks you need to do every day that enrich you/are self-care e.g. (medication, hygiene, food and water intake, journaling, fresh air)

Focus on ‘Did I’ goals instead of ‘How Much’ goals (e.g. 'Did I drink water > Did I drink 8 glasses of water?')

The bar for success then becomes when you did something, as opposed to only when you did a certain amount of something.
Can be a good precursor to tracking ‘How Much’ goals once you have reached a point where you are doing the thing consistently.

THE METHOD (SPREADS AND STRUCTURE)

Create simple easy spreads

Low set up time, takes little time to use, and don’t need to be kept up daily
Create/buy stencils of various sized squares, letters or lines that can make the process of setting up a spread easier and faster

Stick to the extreme basics, or the original Ryder Carroll method

Instead of weekly or daily spreads with initial set up, rapid log in your BuJo when you need to (even if that means your entries are scattered across the week or month and don’t have every day accounted for in chronological order)
In this vein, consider avoiding spreads that are dependent on you having accomplished the previous days tasks – this way you can miss days without feeling like that jeopardizes your ability to use the journal.
If relevant, note briefly in your journal skipped days, and why you skipped them.

Use a line a day spread that can give you an overview of your month

one positive line about your day, or
one line about how you were feeling that day

Gamify the structure of you BuJo or self-care tasks
Make it so you earn something if you do your tasks e.g.

in-game ‘points’/XP
a win in a battle/increase in battle statistics
levelling up
real-life rewards

If games are nor your forte, structure it differenlty but implement a reward system to create incentive

create a tree for your habit. Draw it with no leaves. When you do the habit, add a green leaf. If you miss it, add a brown leaf. This way you are incentivized to keep the plant alive and flourishing with more green than brown leaves.
Like with trackers, if you know the brown leaf/green leaf approach might make you fixate on the number of brown leaves (times you didn't do the habit), just focus on adding leaves when you do the habit and when you miss a day or three, don't add anything to the tree. This way the reward is getting to add leaves, and there is no reminder of when you didn't do that habit. Just a beautiful display of when you did!

Use Rolling Weeklies (sometimes called the Alistair Method)

Create an undated master list of tasks to do, keep it in view, and slot them on to do on higher functioning days.

Break down tasks into their smallest manageable increments and tackle those
Instead of ‘do laundry’, break down tasks into:

remove clothes from laundry basket
take clothes to laundry room
put clothes in washing machine and start cycle
remove clothes from washing machine
put clothes in dryehang clothes up to dry
collect dry clothes
fold dry clothes
hang dry clothes

Detach any routines you make from a set time

Focus on establishing the routine before you place it at a specific time or within a specific time frame e.g. do morning routine.
This way you are free to focus on getting into the habit of the routine first without feeling obstructed by having to do it with time in mind. If you do the habit but at varying or inconsistent times, it is then still a success.
Tackle time (when you want it to happen and how long you want it to take) once you have established this.

MENTAL HEALTH RELATED

Track things related to mental health

Start with a few simple basic selfcare things – once the habit is ingrained, add more.
Track mood, symptoms (when they occur, their severity) and try and identify any patters in when and why you may feel how you feel. Also be aware of what coping mechanisms do and don’t work.
If you complete a task while experiencing a symptom, write the symptom on a column on the side of the task – this way you might notice a correlation between a symptom and the tasks you are able to do.
If tracking your mood is too complex (multiple feelings at once) or discouraging (you mark 'sad' every day), stop!

Create a personalized resource on what to do when you feel at your worst (‘When I Feel Like Shit’ list)

Steps to take
Coping mechanisms that work
Self-care you need to keep up on (medication, hygiene, food and water intake)
Bad Thought/Good Thought list (The bad thoughts you are having, and corresponding good thoughts that give a different perspective – consider writing the good thoughts when you are clear headed and feeling good, so that you can reflect on them when you aren’t!)

Track what triggers particularly bad episodes or feelings

This can help you avoid, manage or prepare for the trigger (if it's inevitable)

Create ‘bad day’, ‘okay day’, ‘and ‘good day’ to do lists that correspond with the kind of day you are having

‘Bad day’ – the absolute bare minimum you need to do to take care of yourself
‘Okay day’ – the bare minimum + simple task(s) to get done
‘Good day’ – bare minimum + more tasks that require more energy (might be a good idea to do things that will help you on worse days – meal prep, do biggest cleaning tasks, etc.)

***What would be classified as a bad, okay, and good day is very dependent on your mental health and state of functioning. Some days when I’m really non-functional, a good day is doing the bare minimum. Some days it is just staying alive. So you might categorize this differently than done here!
Forgive yourself for what you don’t or can’t get done – some days are just bad, and that’s okay!
Involve a gratitude practice in your bullet journaling

Doesn't have to be detailed or long - it could be anything from a single word to a couple of sentences. It's a good way of reminding yourself of the bright spots of a particular day.
No standard about what qualifies. If it's that you got through the day, add it!

(Even if you don’t have it) Check ADHD related subs for ideas on how to trick yourself into doing things!

ALTERNATIVES

Focus more on creating a stable routine and less on Bullet journaling and tasks.

Waking up at a specific time
Hygiene (teeth, shower)
Meals
Movement/exercise (even just a walk)
A household chore

Resources and Recommendations

‘Level up your Life’ By Steven Kamb
Zinnia app for creativity and organization
domesticblisters on tiktok gives tips on what to do to keep your life functional cleaning wise
Unf*ck Your Habitat for tips on how to keep your life functional cleaning-wise, with articles on chronic pain, depression, anxiety, and cleaning-related trauma (Content warning for discussion of abuse and trauma)

Learn from my mistakes. I got a job, but it took me a year, 1100+ applications, and failing 11 final interviews. Here is what you don't do while job searching.

Sure, there are plenty of posts from people who applied to a job and got an offer 30 seconds later. Good for them. But if you're on this sub, you're probably running into more difficulty. I did. Job hunting these days is inherently pretty hard, but there are plenty of things I did wrong during my job hunt that could have saved me time and trouble. I'm a 35 year old in product marketing in the bay area, so this advice may or may not apply to you.
Most of this advice is not new, you may have seen it elsewhere. Well, HEED MY WORDS! You should take that advice.
Here are my don'ts of job hunting:
e: Here's the real #1 piece of advice because someone brought it up in the comments: Don't Not Have A Network. The main reason I had such a hard time was I moved to a new city where I didn't have a professional relationship with ANYONE. I think if you're applying without a friend on the inside, it reduces your odds by 80-90%, based on random factoids we've all seen that say 80% of jobs are never posted publicly.
I went to networking events and coffee meetups and blah blah blah, but COVID put a stop to that before I could make much progress. The biggest piece of advice (by far) is just to have a friend who can get you a job. But if you're reading this, you would have done that already if you could have.
Don't try to get by without doing the standard "best practice" stuff.
I spent a while thinking I could get away without making a customized resume for different jobs. I also thought I would probably have the right keywords naturally, and that I didn't have to worry about that either. WRONG. I wasted many weeks submitting poorly optimized resumes and getting few interviews.
What you should do is have at least one version of your resume customized for each job title you're applying to. That means if you're applying for Sr. Widget Fiddler and Director of Widget Fiddling, you need 2 versions.
Keyword optimize each resume version by copy-pasting 50+ job descriptions for that job's title into a tool like Voyant Tools, which will spit out all the most common words and phrases. Find the most frequent ones that seem important and relevant, and work them into your resume, even if it seems weird to refer to yourself as a "team player" or "entrepreneurial".
Don't be bad at interviewing, not even a little bit bad.
Being a good interviewee is a skill. Most of us aren't born with that skill, and most of us are rusty when it comes time to look for a job. I knew I wasn't great at interviewing, but I really didn't want to go through awkward practice interviews with friends, so I told myself people would understand why I was all nervous, and realize I was still super talented and experienced despite my 'rough edges'. WRONG. I blew it on a lot of interviews before admitting that I had to practice, a lot. I did a bunch of practice interviews, got feedback, and I even talked to an interview coach. The latter was expensive, but I think the dose of outside perspective really helped. YMMV.
I practiced enough that I started getting to final rounds instead of washing out in the first couple rounds. It made a huge difference. Practice.
Don't wing it during the interview.
For 'behavioral' questions (i.e. "tell me about a time when..." questions) everyone says you need to have multiple answers memorized for every major category of question. Ugh! So much work. Greatest weakness. Success story. Failure story. Conflict story. Collaboration story. YAWN. I thought I could come up with good answers on the spot. It's "supposed to be a conversation", right? WRONG. I blew it on a couple interviews before realizing I was coming across as both unprepared AND inexperienced.
Sit down and work out your bullet points for every answer, BEFORE you land an interview. Pain in the butt? Yes. But not as big a pain as getting an interview, blowing it, then ending up doing the work anyway.
Don't apply to old job listings.
If it's still up, they're still hiring, right? WRONG. I have found that job listings are good for about as long as fresh bread. You mostly want to apply the day they're posted, 2-3 days is OK, 5 days is pushing it, beyond that, it's literal trash. I started out applying to anything relevant that was less than a month old, and my app-to-interview yield was around 1%. Started applying to new listings exclusively, and my yield went to more like 3%. YMMV.
Don't apply to listings that aren't on the employer's own site.
It's become disturbingly common for 3rd-party sites to steal and re-post job listings they have nothing to do with. You click on a link on LinkedIn or Indeed, and you end up on Neuvoo or some random BS. Don't submit any of your info on those sites. Very often the jobs are expired already, but these 3rd-party scammers are still re-posting them to steal your info. Even if they're not expired, there's no reason to think they actually send your application to the employer.
If you land somewhere unexpected, go to the employer's actual careers section on their site and find the listing yourself. Otherwise you're just giving your info to someone to sell, and the employer probably never sees it. Please report these listings as you go.
Don't be too picky with job titles.
Unless your resume precisely "fits the profile" employers are looking for, you're going to have to apply a lot. I had to apply a lot. At first, I was exclusively applying to one title, because although I didn't "fit the profile" I didn't want to compromise. I ended up getting a really solid job with a different title, after I loosened my criteria JUST a tad.
Have a serious talk with yourself about how many months you're willing to apply before broadening your search, and don't talk yourself out of good jobs because they have the "wrong" title.
Don't be too loose with companies you apply to.
At a couple points in the process, I ended up with interviews at companies that I seriously didn't want to work for. I was playing the numbers game and I would apply to anything with the right title, even if I hadn't heard of the company. I figured if I got an interview, I would worry about the company later.
Difficulty: If you are on unemployment, this can lead to a sticky situation - if you turn down an offer, you legally can't collect unemployment anymore in many places. It's also pretty hard to justify to yourself turning down ANY interview if you actually need the money.
Have a loose idea of who the company is before applying, to avoid those awkward moments.
Don't stop applying until the ink is dry on your offer letter.
My advice is to apply to every suitable listing as soon as it's posted, which could be as many as 10-30 per day depending on your field and geography. If things are going well, you'll also have interviews going on during any given week, which also put heavy demands on your mental energy and prep time.
It is tempting to stop applying for jobs if you are doing multiple interviews and they seem to be going well. You need the time, and one of them has to work out, right? WRONG. It happened to me multiple times - I'd get further along in an interview process, I'd be focusing on prep, and I'd let my application routine slip. Bad idea. If your application pipeline runs dry, it can be another 2-6 weeks before the interviews start flowing again. ABA - always be applying.
Don't get your hopes up. (maybe the most important tip.)
Your mental resilience to rejection and your self-regard are finite resources. They are resources you need to conserve to maintain your overall mental health and good job-hunting habits. Job hunting can burn through these resources like Joe Exotic through a bag of meth. Don't be like me and get emotionally invested in any given job before you get an offer. Don't start picking out all the stuff you're going to buy with the new salary. Don't start thinking of what doors are going to open up for you with this step in your career. Don't mentally pick out outfits for your new commute. Just don't.
I consider myself a mentally tough person, so I should be able to handle the repeated rejection, right? WRONG. If you allow yourself to start caring about a job before you GET the job, you WILL be crushed to bits. Maybe not the first time, but after the 5th, or the 10th, it becomes hard to take.
To some of the newer job hunters I've seen on this sub: Caring about a job from the day you APPLY? Sheer lunacy. You shouldn't even remember where you applied by the time you go to bed that day.
Keep in mind: It's a numbers game. It's not personal. You WILL get the right job eventually, if you keep going. You have to maintain faith in yourself, but hold no hope for any particular job.
In emotional terms, treat it less like a poker game, (where any hand can be a big deal) more like a slot machine (where you care zero until you finally win). No matter how tough you think you are, take care to maintain your mental state, especially during COVID where so many aspects of life are also wearing down our mental health.
Don't be afraid to be a try-hard.
The role I finally got was based largely on a "take home project" used to demonstrate my working style. It was paid, also really long, the minimum suggested time was 10 hours. Usually I put 70% effort into trial projects, because I don't want to bust my ass for a throwaway, and I don't want to look desperate. My thinking is "Well, we're all professionals, so as long as I mention a few of the right things, they'll know we're on the same level, right?" WRONG.
On this one, I decided to go HAM on the project. All or nothing. I ended up putting over 20 hours into it, (the max time they suggested was 20) and came up with a total overkill amount of material, it was probably 20 pages worth, if not more. To give some idea, I spent like 4 hours just doing addressable market sizing, which everyone including me acknowledges is fairly pointless.
Part of the project was also to see how we communicate about our work - they put me on their company slack, so I logged onto it pretty much every day to update them on my progress. It was firmly in try-hard weirdo territory. But it worked!
So I guess my lesson from this is, if you're going to bother with these projects, be the one who turns in the blue ribbon material.
NB: Be aware of "free work" scams where they try to get you to do the actual job without hiring you for the job. If it's pertinent to the actual job and it's more than an hour or two of work, it should be paid. Unpaid trial projects that don't relate to the actual business are OK, but you'll have to decide for yourself how much time you're willing to put in for free.
Don't assume ***anything*** until it's final.
In 3 instances, I got much further than I expected in a hiring process, and in one I was blindsided by a rejection where I thought I was a shoo-in. #1, they interviewed me for the role (up to the final round) even though the job called for an actual engineer and I have zero engineering experience.
In #2, I blew an interview and got rejected. I knew exactly how I blew it, I got the yips and did poorly. So I sent an email reply explaining what I SHOULD have said, and that I really believed in the company's mission, and that I realize I was a poor interviewee, but I was working on it - they actually gave me another shot and I made it to the final round.
In the last unexpected twist story, they actually scheduled a final interview, then CANCELLED IT. I have been rejected for about a million jobs, but I've never been cancelled on. They said that instead of an interview, they would just review my trial project. I couldn't imagine cancelling an interview with someone you intend to hire, so I assumed this 'review' was just a consolation prize and the job was going to someone else. On the day the cancelled interview was meant to take place, they offered me the job. Huh???? Later that day I rode to heck on a flying pig and bought a snowcone there. But I also got a job.
On the other side of things, I was told directly I was the top candidate for a role, the only one who was really qualified, but because of COVID they were putting the role on hold. OK cool, I figured I was a shoo-in once they actually hired for it. Well, they re-listed the job about 45 days later. They didn't reach out to me. I messaged them. They told me I wasn't even going to get a phone screen for it. WTF? They lied to my face for no reason whatsoever? Yep. They did.
The lesson: Do not assume anything! ANYTHING!

Version 1.1.0

Major Features

Added logistic requests to spidertron.
Train stop allows to set limit of incoming trains.

Features

The continue button now respects the last type of game played (single player, MP host, MP client).
Added support to use blueprints, deconstruction planners, upgrade planners, and modded selection tools from the map view.
Hovering the alert notification will show arrows on the edge of the pointing to alert locations.
Rich text icon selector.
Newly unlocked recipes are highlighted until hovered.
Spidertron remotes now allow to add queue commands and a command to follow any entity.
Added vertical/horizontal blueprint flipping.
Transport belt drag building is locked into a line, can be turned off by an interface setting.
Ghosts can be fast replaced and rotated.
Ghost build can be used to fast replace non-ghost entities, which results in an upgrade order with (optionally) a direction change order.

Minor Features

When editing blueprint: Added a way to specify relative grid position for blueprint that is snapping to absolute grid. Blueprint preview rendering box is updated based on selected grid size and position.
Inventory transfer works on empty equipment grid slot the same as on empty inventory slot (moves all).
Equipment can be placed by moving.
Cursor replenishes when placing into the equipment grid the same way as when building in world.
Spidertron item shows its color.
Added a way to reset spidertron remote.
Spider tries to move legs away when they are blocking robots construction.
Power poles/underground belts built by dragging logic works also with ghost building.
Power pole ghosts show connections.
Power pole connections are saved in the blueprint. They still auto connect to other poles outside the blueprint.
Entities marked for deconstruction show the target upgrade.
Added tags, worker robots, rail signal states and recipes toggles into the settings to what show on the map.
Added support to use the add-stop and add-temporary-stop controls for the train you're driving in the map view.
Added hotkey (F10) to switch between viewed player in replay.
Added support to reset mod settings in the "failed to load mods" startup GUI.
Expanded undo to work with fast replace and upgrade planner.
Added SteelSeries GameSense support. more

Graphics

Added unique technology icon for Advanced material processing 2 (Electric furnace).
Changed postprocessing effect in zoomed-to-world view.
Added detailed night lighting of entities.

Optimisations

Multithreaded belt update logic.
Overall small entity update time reduction + statistics of how much update time is taken by individual entities.

Balancing

Productivity module 1 decreases speed of the machine by 5% instead of 15%.
Productivity module 2 decreases speed of the machine by 10% instead of 15%.

Changes

the Close GUI key-binding (default value is "E") was renamed to Confirm Gui. It works the same as before for many cases (just closing the GUI), but in a lot of other cases, it works as confirm, which generally means the same as clicking the "green button".
Renamed clean-cursor to clear-cursor on all the relevant places (locale, key-binding name)
Equipment placing now uses the build key-binding instead of the cursor transfer. The default same key-binding is the same.
Changed maximum temperature of all fluids apart water and steam to be the same as the default.
Poles built by dragging are now actually build on the maximum connection distance from the last built pole instead of the previous logic that was working weird in a lot of corner cases.
Underground belt build by dragging now accept the existing piece you start building on as part of the dragging logic.
Removed 'mineable wreckage' entity. more
Removed the (+/-) buttons for logistic requests, instead they expand dynamically when something is put in the last line.
Wave defense can now only be won by launching a rocket.
Invalid names of icons in preview icons of blueprint tools now load as unknowns instead of canceling the import string process for that item. more
Fluids in train circuit logic treat summed < 1 fluid values as 1 instead of 0.
Clicking non-empty quickbar slot with something in cursor sets the quickbar slot to the cursor value rather than selecting the quickbar value.
Invalid rail signals output no values into circuit network.
Added a confirmation message when loading saves with removed mods or changed mod settings.
The cut tool now properly includes trains. It showed trains in the selection preview, but ignored them.
Added alternate control locales for keyboard and mouse scroll control binds. more
Disabled loading of saves before 0.18.0 version (You can use 1.0 to load older saves and re-save them).
Adjusted the artillery turret collision box so it is possible to squeak through.
Removed the 'Rocket silos stats' GUI.
Arithmetic combinator 'Each' signal can now be used in either left or right parameter.

Gui

Added unique icons for technology effects.
Added list of affected entities to the technology effect tooltips.
Menu background now features various factory simulations instead of a static picture.
When entering vehicle, the vehicle window is shown next to the character gun window, instead of replacing it.
Moved the charactevehicle gun window to the left of the quickbar.
Removed the "Character" tab from the character window.
Changed the flat character screen option to be defaulted to true.
Added held stack item slot for inserter window.
Improved the tips and tricks window: it contains index, search and allows interactive text tags to be used.
Added search to loading/saving, settings, shortcuts selection, multiplayer host settings windows and rename stop.
Moved the ammo/used-up/health indicator of items down, so it is not obstructed by the number.
Added underline for hyperlinks.
Personal request button have custom text + red diode when it is out of network or when the personal requests are turned off.
Logistic/Trash request buttons show only one number when the trash and request count is the same.
Train elapsed time condition has confirmation button and only updates the time when confirmed.
Fixed styles for: browse games GUI, host game settings, opened character and select upgrade slot.
Tabbing into a textfield selects the text.
Removed tiles stay in the list of components in the blueprint setup GUI with 0, the same way as entities, so they can be easily enabled.
Added minimum/maximum temperature and heat capacity info to the fluid tooltip.
Added usage instruction to capsules/fish.
Fixed fish tooltip so it shows consumption/healing instead of shooting/damage.

Sounds

Added blueprint building sound.
Added undo sound.
Added sound for rail planner activation.
Added sound for copy/paste.
Added sound for opening items and armor.
Added sound for selection start and selection finish. Related to blueprint tools.
Added sound for pipe to ground as per the pipe.
Added sound effects and a specific music track to the main menu.
Assembling Machine 2 and 3 made less noisy
Robot repair reworked to sound more high tech
Removed dead space at the end of some sounds which may have stopped sounds playing
Ghost rail building now has the ghost building sound
Lowered volume on game won and lost sounds
Assembling Machine 2 and 3 made less noisy.
Robot repair reworked to sound more high tech.
Removed dead space at the end of some sounds which may have stopped sounds playing.
Ghost rail building now has the ghost building sound.
Lowered volume on game won and lost sounds.

Bugfixes

Fixed that copying the spider in the map editor while it had equipment crashed the game. more
Fixed a crash when trying to use different weapons in the spider. more
Fixed a crash when reading/writing blueprint icons through the Lua API in some cases. more
Fixed a crash when importing blueprint books in some cases. more
Fixed that the spidertron would still be marked as moving when it wasn't resulting in the 'enable logistics while moving' option not working. more
Fixed splitter behaviour when putting to it directly and it has the priority output blocked. more
Fixed that spidertron descriptions didn't show the custom name. more
Fixed building curved rails with damaged rails could duplicate rails. more
Fixed logistic request slot highlighting when they're changed through circuit connections. more
Fixed a game freeze when empty unit groups are told to build bases. more
Fixed LuaTrain::path_end_stop would return nil when train had path extended due to waypoint.
Fixed the spidertron preview box.
Fixed that the blueprint book preview disappeared after editing it.
Fixed that spidertron and its remote weren't swappable.
Fixed that players could be stuck in walls when building them.
Removed the possibility to specify alpha when changing player color by command.
Fixed LuaInventory::find_empty_stack would return only filtered stacks when filter is provided. more
Fixed that blueprint library slots padding was too big.
Fixed that some items didn't render properly in the world. Specifically blueprint like items, spidertrons and spider remotes. more
Fixed a crash when a modded fast train goes through junction occupied by another train. more
Fixed replay desync when existing save is given to a server which promotes or demotes a player based on its own admin list. more
Fixed train GUI instructions for translations that are long. more
Fixed interaction with the delete button in the blueprint setup. more
Fixed that map preview in the train window wasn't squashing its size when needed. more
Fixed that force-building blueprint from the blueprint library on top of an existing electric pole triggered wire removal instead of blueprint building. more
Fixed that the map editor spawn-items GUI didn't work with chat rich text. more
Fixed that deconstruction planners and upgrade planners wouldn't show the logistic overlay when used from the blueprint library. more
Fixed that rebinding rotate to middle mouse button caused conflicts when trying to rotate while modifiers were pressed. more
Fixed on_gui_switch_state_changed was not fired for custom switch elements in some cases. more
Fixed that entities were selected under the GUI on the right side.
Fixed that the key to activate tooltips didn't work outside game, or when the game was stopped.
Fixed Team production script error when building before any round starts. more
Fixed Wave defense error message would error due to trying to concatenate a nil variable. more
Fixed that it was possible to stay invulnerable after the crash site cutscene. more
Fixed train mini-tutorial script errors due to missing entity prototypes. more
Fixed tightspot script error when trying to restore invalid entities. more
Fixed that bonus research production could add progress even if no research could be done. more
Fixed that game.server_save() was able to write to locations outside the saves folder. more
Fixed that technology tooltip in the lab GUI wouldn't update when research changed. more
Fixed a bad message when using the permissions command. more
Fixed a crash when remote calls fail. more
Fixed that biters would sometimes not be able to attack entities blocking their way. more
Fixed that writing .energy for entities with heat energy sources didn't work correctly. more
Fixed that non-blueprint items in blueprint books didn't draw their name. more
Fixed that the cut-paste tool allowed alt-cutting which didn't deconstruct what was selected. more
Fixed that setting rolling-stock inventory size to 0 while having an equipment great meant the GUI couldn't be opened. more
Fixed that trying to save temporary LuaItemStacks from some events resulted in the save failing to load. more
Fixed that blueprint component icons weren't kept in a stable order. more
Fixed that the finished game sound could play multiple times. more
Fixed that building blueprints by dragging in the map view didn't work correctly. more
Fixed that building train ghosts manually didn't work in most cases. more
Fixed that moving blueprint sin the blueprint library didn't make sounds.
Fixed that opening/closing sound were not working properly in latency in some cases.
Fixed that LuaEntity::can_insert() didn't work right for module inventories. more
Fixed that on_player_built_tile had the wrong 'tile' when using hazard concrete in some cases. more
Fixed that some of the checkboxes weren't highlighted as they should when hovering reset in the map generator GUI. more
Fixed performance issue related to rendering long train paths. more
Fixed missing tooltip on the editing button in upgrade planner, deconstruction planner and blueprint book. more
Fixed Shallow water 2 to be layered above sand tiles and therefore missing transitions with sand tiles. more
Fixed stone path and concrete were missing transitions to out-of-map tiles. more
Fixed the upgrade planner to upgrade the corresponding underground belt for all combinations of real/ghost connections.
Fixed that biters could get stuck trying to pathfind toward spidertron, causing performance issues. (https://forums.factorio.com/88744 https://forums.factorio.com/89327)
Fixed lights near right or bottom edge of the screen would render twice sometimes. more
Fixed that setting style properties on LuaGuiElements didn't work correctly for some widget types. more
Fixed that rails didn't have the building smoke.
Fixed that modded locomotives with void energy sources and equipment grids wouldn't show the grid in the GUI. more
Fixed that modded productivity bonuses in tooltips didn't always show everything. more
Fixed that unit groups could get stuck in the gathering phase. more
Fixed that negative damage stickers didn't work. more
Fixed that selection tool type items marked as mod-openable didn't work correctly in the quickbar. more
Fixed that train would not repath when possible due to being in chain signal section. more
Fixed GeneratorPrototype::scale_fluid_usage would cause non-linear scaling of fluid consumption based on energy demand. more
Fixed crash when storage tank was defined with too small fluid flow sprite with low priority and ended up streamed. more
Fixed rotating assembling machines with heat and fluid connections. more
Fixed that it was possible to hold ghost building + blueprint from the library at the same time. more
Fixed crash related to being possible to insert blueprint for re-assignment into the blueprint library. more
Fixed that previous technology key-binding focused search in the blueprint library. more
Fixed that ghosts created by destroying entities weren't upgradeable. more
Fixed that kick & ban commands broke replays. more
Fixed that spidertron would stretch its leg way too much in some special situations. more
Fixed offshore pump underwater layer being drawn over landfill tiles sometimes. more
Fixed decimal textfield would not take decimal point as input when selection would make it valid input. more
Fixed that train could get stuck within chain signal section when exit signal is requested to close by circuit network and train is forced to repath. more
Fixed that train would not immediately reserve signals in chain signal section after repath when there are no signals within braking distance.
Fixed that wrong slider position when requesting items in some cases. more
Fixed that rocket silo without fixed_recipe didn't save its recipe in the blueprint. more
Fixed that the total-raw list in the recipe tooltip for some translations. more
Fixed glitching sound loops: steam turbine and electric furnace. more
Fixed changing dawn property of a surface would create visual glitch in day-night cycle. more
Fixed misleading tooltip for disabled shortcut bar items. more
Fixed startup music volume balance. more
Fixed that sounds outside of radar coverage would still play. more
Fixed personal laser defense with minimum range would stop working when enemies would get within minimum range. more
Fixed that automatic rail signal direction selection works also when ghost-force building over trees/rocks in the way. more
Fixed that the replay controls weren't accessible when the current player opened the technology screen. more
Fixed the hand behaviour for some cases of fast entity transfer. more
Fixed sizing of the right panel when show_side_menu is disabled. more
Fixed that blueprint book tooltip based on chat icon had overflowing contents. more
Fixed that the entity hover interval wasn't applied when switching from entity to entity. more
Fixed that belts didn't show the proper curved preview when fast replacing. more
Fixed that the entity tooltip was being shown in some cases where it was not supposed to. more
Fixed that the station name icons were clipped in some cases. more
Fixed that the minimap focus wasn't updating when switching player in the replay. more
Fixed that it wasn't possible to start scenario with replay enabled. more
Fixed losing chain signals in the advanced rail mini-tutorial. more
Fixed train buttons being cut off in advanced rail mini-tutorial in some locales. more
Fixed a crash related to building laser turrets through robots. more
Fixed Bulgarian language name. more
Fixed text box font not refreshing after being changed. more
Clarified tooltip text for locked levels in new game GUI. more
Fixed server crashing when quitting while it's saving for desync report. more
Fixed that rolling stock rotation was not set correctly when using the pipette tool. more
Fixed that if else chain noise expressions would sometimes produce corrupt results. more
Fixed a crash when using identical literal expression in spot noise expressions. more
Fixed that steam engine would show as producing 960kW in electric network GUI. more
Fixed that rail ghost building didn't play the ghost building sound.
Fixed a crash when a startup error tried to use rich-text. more
Fixed a crash when related to editing edited scenarios while in vehicles. more
Fixed that it was possible to specify a rail signal pair that does not collide with each other. more
Fixed that collision box could be removed from the rail signal resulting in a signal that could be placed not on a tile center. more
Fixed that it was possible to specify a transport belt connectable entity that would not collide with other belt connectable entities. more
Fixed barrel recipe generation not taking into account fluid icon_size if fluid icons were defined. more
Fixed that clients wouldn't be able to join a multiplayer game if the banlist was too large. more
Fixed that selecting folders in the save-game-gui would still allow saving as the save file name. more
Fixed a crash when opening the blueprint library through lua. more
Fixed the program exit status code when a dedicated server fails. more
Fixed that blueprints with rolling stocks could get invalidated when syncing shelves. more
Fixed that the technology screen would show a "Resume" button for technology levels that haven't yet been researched at all. more
Fixed that cars with minimap_representation set would still render the default triangle. more
Fixed building assembling machine ghosts with unresearched recipes left them with no fluid connection previews. more
Fixed that biters who couldn't reach their spawner would remain on the map, potentially preventing other biters from spawning. more
Fixed script data leak in wave defense scenario. more
Fixed that background sound didn't fade out when stopping replay. more
Fixed that the deconstruction planner ignored tile mode & filters when cancelling deconstruction.
Fixed signature error when updating non-steam version on OSX. more
Fixed fast-replacing entity connected to a ghost entity by circuit network. more
Fixed that on some maps, biter attacks could decrease almost to nothing. more
Fixed inserter with fluid energy source could consume too much fluid when no fluid usage was given and scaling was disabled. more
Fixed that building rolling stock could place multiple of them when there are close adjacent rails. more
Fixed that LuaPlayer::can_place_entity would not calculate player reach the same way as manual building. more
Fixed that steam engine in multiple connected electric networks would overproduce and waste energy. more
Fixed problems related to opening blueprint while other blueprint is in the process of being configured. more
Fixed cutscene starting at {0,0} instead of player position when no start_position was given. more
Fixed electric network GUI production bar related to tertiary energy sources. more
Fixed a crash in the pathfinder that could happen when the bounding box didn't contain the tile center. more
Fixed tooltips not showing electric energy source information for electric-energy-interface entities. more
Fixed that undoing a deconstruction order of entities with item requests didn't recover these requests unless the entity was actually removed. more
Fixed that spidertron remote usage on map was bound to open item control rather than the build item control it is bound to in normal view. more
Fixed that flamethrower turrets could fail to shoot at a target. more
Fixed problem with rich text in blueprint library. more
Fixed tiles would be rendered with 1px gap between them at some positions, zoom levels and screen resolutions. more
Fixed heat pipe related drawing only working for boiler type entities. more
Fixed that running /server-save wouldn't save anything if the server was started with --start-server-load-scenario. more
Fixed activation working sound playing even when the entity was already active when being encountered. more
Fixed a pathfinding-related crash. more
Fixed crash when organizing sprites into atlases when using "not-compressed" sprite flag. more
Fixed pipe-to-ground working sound would ignore flow rate. more
Fixed crash when calling take_screenshot with very small resolution values. more
Fixed that setting fluid wagon fluid through the Lua API didn't update the train inactivity value. more
Fixed various issues related to entities leaving gaps when building too fast.
Fixed a crash when setting specific fluids in the infinity pipe GUI. more
Fixed that the admin GUI didn't live-update the whitelisted field. more
Fixed crash related to migrating circuit network entities while loading the blueprint library. more
Fixed that artillery would keep shooting at something when it moved out of range. more
Fixed softlock in tutorial if the player took the iron plates too quickly. more
Fixed missing blueprint components scroll bar when there is a lot of components. more

Modding

New item flag "spawnable", every item has to have that flag to be creatable through the shortcuts directly. more
Renamed create-blueprint-item shortcut action to spawn-item and item_to_create to item_to_spawn.
Increased the total number of collision masks from 14 to 55. See the lua-api collision mask concepts page for which layers the game doesn't actively use.
Changed collision mask 'layer-11' to 'rail-layer'.
Changed collision mask 'layer-12' to 'transport-belt-layer'.
Changed loader to only connect to the front belt, not from side. This is to fix internal problems related to modded loaders with custom sizes and side loading of it.
Implemented NoiseExpressions::fromPropertyTree for the "offset-points" noise expression function.
Removed rocket silo rocket prototype property "result_items" because it did nothing.
Added draw_as_light and draw_as_glow property to sprite definitions. draw_as_shadow, draw_as_light and draw_as_glow are mutually exclusive and draw_as_shadow takes precedence.
Unified laser and beam related ammo categories to just "laser" and "beam".
Renamed technology "laser-turret-speed"->"laser-shooting-speed", it now affects both robots and laser turrets.
Renamed technology "turrets"->"gun-turret", "laser-turrets"->"laser-turret", "combat-robotics"->"defender", "combat-robotics-2"->"distractor", "combat-robotics-3"->"destroyer" "tanks"->"tank", "stone-walls"->"stone-wall", "gates"->"gate"
Internal spidertron specification in a way to make torso and leg scaling much easier.
Renamed "source_effects" property of line trigger item to "range_effects", due to ambiguity with source_effects on action delivery. more
Added the "linked-container" entity type.
Removed 'small-plane', 'computer', 'railgun-dart' and 'railgun' items.
Removed 'bait-chest', 'crash-site-assembling-machine-1-broken', 'crash-site-assembling-machine-1-repaired', 'crash-site-assembling-machine-2-broken', 'crash-site-assembling-machine-2-repaired', 'crash-site-electric-pole', 'crash-site-generator', 'crash-site-lab-broken' and 'crash-site-lab-repaired' entities.
Removed the "auto-character-logistic-trash-slots" modifier and forceDataValues. The auto trash are now always enabled when any trash slots present.
Added direction to SimpleEntityWithOwner and SimpleEntityWithForce.
Constrained collision_box and collision_mask of transport belt connectable prototypes so it is not possible to build the entities in overlapping positions. more
Added optional draw_fluid_icon_override boolean to pipe to ground prototypes. Causes fluid icon to be drawn, ignoring the usual pair requirement.
Removed fluid turret prototype property 'indicator_light'.
Added fluid turret prototype properties 'enough_fuel_indicator_light' and 'not_enough_fuel_indicator_light'.
Added locomotive and car prototype properties 'front_light_pictures' and 'darkness_to_render_light_animation'.
Renamed logistic-container prototype property 'logistic_slots_count' to 'max_logistic_slots'.
The data stage files are no longer divided into demo and non-demo. This means the files with the demo- prefix were either merged into files without the prefix and/or the prefix was removed from the file name.

Scripting

Renamed the clean_cursor method to clear_cursor.
Renamed on_put_item to on_pre_build, as it is much more precise name for that event. It fires when anything is used for building: item, blueprint, blueprint record or ghost cursor.
Changed 'control_behavior.parameters.parameters' to just 'control_behavior.parameters' for LuaDeciderCombinatorControlBehavior, LuaConstantCombinatorControlBehavior, and LuaArithmeticCombinatorControlBehavior.
Changed LuaItemStack::active_index to return nil if the blueprint book inventory has zero slots. more
Changed LuaItemStack::count to return 0 instead of failing when the stack is empty.
Changed LuaControl for players in cutscenes so the character is still usable.
Changed on_player_cancelled_crafting 'cancel_count' to report the exact number of crafts cancelled.
Decoupled deactivation by script and deactivation by circuit network.
mod-gui.lua no longer defines 'mod_gui' as a global variable, it is now only available when required: local mod_gui = require("mod-gui")
Made LuaEntity::speed read work with spider-vehicle.
Made LuaEntityPrototype::guns read work for spider-vehicle.
Removed LuaEntityPrototype::production read.
Removed LuaBootstrap::is_game_in_debug_mode read.
Added LuaEntityPrototype::max_energy_production read.
Added LuaEntity::trains_limit read/write.
Added LuaEntity::trains_count read.
Added LuaTrainStopControlBehavior::trains_count_signal, trains_limit_signal, set_trains_limit and read_trains_count read/write.
Added LuaEntity::tree_gray_stage_index, read/write.
Added LuaEntity::tree_gray_stage_index_max read.
Added LuaEntity::can_wires_reach().
Added LuaEntity::crafting_queue_progress read.
Added on_spider_command_completed event.
Added LuaEntity::get_connected_rolling_stock().
Added 'create_at_cursor' to LuaPlayer::create_local_flying_text().
Added LuaGameScript::map_gen_presets read.
Added LuaStyle::extra_margin_when_activated and extra_padding_when_activated write, which also accept arrays of values.
Added LuaStyle::size write.
Added LuaGuiElement::name write support.
Added LuaGuiElement::tags read/write.
Added LuaTile::to_be_deconstructed().
Added LuaGuiElement::bring_to_front().
Added 'has-rocket-launch-products' filter to ItemPrototypeFilters.
Added support to save/load LuaProfilers. They simply reset the time when saved/loaded.
Added LuaEntityPrototype::guns for artillery turrets and wagons.
Added LuaEntity::combat_robot_owner read/write.
Added LuaPlayer::clear_recipe_notifications and LuaPlayer::add_recipe_notification
Added LuaGuiElement::add "index" property, allowing insertion to anywhere in the parent element.
Added LuaGuiElement::get_index_in_parent().
Added support to connect/disconnect power switches through LuaEntity::connect_neighboudisconnect_neighbour.
Added LuaForce::get_linked_inventory().
Added LuaEntity::link_id read/write.
Added LuaGui 'relative' (player.gui.relative). For showing a CustomGuiElement relative to some base game C++ GUI.
Added LuaGuiElement::anchor read/write.
Added 'alt_mode' to on_player_toggled_alt_mode event.
Added 'cursor_position' to the custom input events.
Added 'queued_count' to on_pre_player_crafted_item.
Added LuaPlayer::cutscene_character read.

Use the automatic updater if you can (check experimental updates in other settings) or download full installation at http://www.factorio.com/download/experimental.

Some Newb tips I wish I knew earlier

Hey guys, after the overwhelming positive response (thank you so much btw) on my last post of useful mons below A rank, I'm back with some more tips and info for F2P and non alike.
I've noticed a trend on the Facebook fan page and here that some info isn't well deciminated amongst everyone...either from not knowing of or not reading through the JP wiki in bad translate mode, or just a lack of posts like these to bundle it all together.
So here are my top "things I wish I knew" items, and for sake of not taking credit as me finding all this, fwiw...all of these are either in comments here or on FB, or in the wiki.
USING THE WIKI

You'll see i link the JP wiki a bunch, you can have Chrome auto translate and its okay...names are scuffed for stuff and its def Engrish but its usable.

MORE INFO ON USEFUL MONS

To extend on my last post, the wiki does have its own ranking system of strength for each monster rank here https://gamewith.jp/dq-tact/article/show/207923 and in addition if you click into the details on any monster of a rank, say a B rank one, in the site breadcrumbs you'll see a page for "# rank monster evaluation list"...click that to see a bigger view of each rank with point value assigns.

OVERALL PROGRESSION TIPS

In every aspect, keep an eye on your char exp and mission completions. Try to accept the player xp rewards to level your account for a free stam reset. Overlapping a bit is okay, the bar will overfill, but don't leave any stam on the table. You want to be sure you can burn it all.
Imo focus on story until you can't clear the stages. Don't fret the CP number, just go...doesn't matter if you 3 medal or 0 medal, it's prog and xp.
When story is too hard, move on to making sure you have Rank Up, Weapons, and lastly Ability Rank Up missions cleared up to the highest you can.
If you have Stam, imo Rank Up farming is the best use until you are set on mats for your next several mains progression, then go to weapons until you have B or better for your mains, then Ability Rank mats.
No stam? Go to Battle Road and grind until you can clear stage 6 and get the goodies.
Once you finish story, you get A rank weapon quests, and now you move on to clearing all material / resource missions / account prog like master perks, saving, etc.

SAVING RESOURCES

Gold is precious, be wary of throwing it away.
Read the Draw Details on banners, they list the mons you can pull...if you notice there are only S and maybe 1 or 2 A ranks you don't have, DONT waste gems on it...you can sit on them til a new banner and pull for new S ranks. Early game 1-3 10 pulls along with clearing content (and all the freebies we get for launch) should get you 85 to 95% of the non A or S ranks ez.
Unless you are 100% sure you can't do better on a retry, don't use the 50 gems to revive. The only one it really should be needed on is the Night Clubber fight bc holy hell. The rest you can def get stronger for, not auto, something.
You don't have to refill stam with gems, you can go to battle road, but if you are hellbound on it, I'd suggest only doing it a handful of times a week until the cost resets...40 gems vs 100+ is a lot easier to stomach.
You don't have to rank up a monster until it is capped or say 1 level away, save your stones and gold.
You do get more xp scrolls weekly, but I'd suggest funneling them or holding ones for your 2nd or 3rd round of mains...we all will pull that elusive Wight King or Killing Machine, or next banner S rank eventually and you'll want to be able to both boost it and other complementary mons up to usable state quick. This also goes in toe with saving rank up mats.

RECRUITING IN STORY

You can click Enemy Details on the Embark screen to see which monsters are recruited.
Skip tickets can be a good way to gnab the rarer recruits (B ranks, etc)
The wiki lists drops here https://gamewith.jp/dq-tact/article/show/216122

USING SKIP TICKETS

This will probs be more personal preference, but I use mind to quick farm Rank Up missions for mats. Manually 3 medal the highest you can and blast.
If you somehow are flush with mats you could use them in high xp grinds to save time.
When using them, have a party of low levels as your group bc you auto win, ez xp.

HOW TO GRIND MORE EFFECTIVELY

Battle Road for free when you wait for stam is a godsend.
Typically i grind Stage 1 a few times with fresh mons until 13 or so, then 2 until like 15 or 16. Assuming one of the B ranks you can use is higher you shouldn't have trouble.
After that I farm either 3 or 4 for a LONG time depending on which stage...maybe even 5 in some...basically aiming for 1200+ xp a run...or the highest you can clear in 2 to 3 or so turns.
Story mode has some good xp per stam stages to grind, listed here https://gamewith.jp/dq-tact/article/show/210788 and your goal
I personally like Ch 12 Ep 4, its a solid chunk of xp for 8 stam, i can clear with basically 1 dedicated and 1 flex carry, and it drops mons i want awakening on.

HOW TO GAIN QUICK MASTER PERKS

This is really an extension of How to Grind, so everything in there applies.
Lots of tactics but mine has been to A) do battle road in my downtime farming quick but higher xp stages, B) boost low levels in my story mode grinds to cap before ranking a lot up and once and repeating.
Any decent xp grind can be carried by 1 to 2 mons of high level, leaving 3 or even 4 boost slots. Example: I can farm Ch 12 Ep 4 with my Archdemon and 1 other decent A or S rank, boosting 3 of anything. You should always try to carry with mons you also can gain xp on to always be gaining something on everyone.
Doing this, you get some levels on your "mains" or "mains in training", and can boost low ranks ez. 1 decent xp stage can insta take them 11, which is +30 or +40 levels depending on how many boosts, plus or minus if your mains level. You generally can do this until the boosts no longer gain at least a full level a run and then swap in more. E.g. my Ch 12 grind I usually take them to 25 or so and then rotate, maybe less if I want to just power through more progress and circle back later to specific mons.
Basically you can quickly hit gold in like a day on most classes, dragon can be more annoying bc there are fewer.

BATTLE ROAD

I focused on getting to stage 3 on everything, then farming till I could clear stage 6 for weapons.

QOL STUFF

If you hit Rematch you don't have to go through Battle Prep again, makes it ez to have less manual taps to get into the actions.
If you are grinding and need to swap members, do Edit and Rematch, this lets you edit then go back in and not hit the battle prep.

Review of installing the Mr. Shades PID on my Gaggia Classic 2019

I just installed a Mr. Shades PID on my new Gaggia Classic and got it running. I’ve seen a couple of reviews like this recently, but when I was trying to figure out what machine (and then what PID) to get, I looked around for reviews and wished there were more. So, I thought I’d post my own.
A similar (slightly more optimistic) post is here: https://www.reddit.com/gaggiaclassic/comments/l8ms5b/my_experience_fitting_mr_shades_pid_to_gaggia/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

TL;DR: Approach this with the right mindset, and you will be happy. Expect a real DIY experience if you get this; do not expect it to be easy. Plan to spend 8–10 hours on it. If you are very efficient, exceptional at reading manuals, and don’t make mistakes, it can be much faster, but unless you have done this before, it will almost certainly longer than the 2–3 hours advertised (probably regardless of which PID kit you buy and from which company).

Pros:

Major kudos to Mr. Shades for making & supporting these kits. I recognize that it would be a pretty tough challenge! Gaggia changes their designs in little ways on a regular basis (e.g. lid structure, wiring colors, etc) and seems to have some inconsistencies in build (e.g. which wire goes in which slot for switches), and this throws off the instructions. It would be impossible for Mr. Shades to stay ahead of that or fully account for it in static instructions, but it seems like he figures things out and provides pretty reliable support for folks to get the kit working.
The support email was very responsive and helpful. I got help on two main things: 1) I wasn’t getting power to the PID device, and 2) the Gaggia lid wasn’t closing after install, due to a change in the lid design between 2018 & 2019 models. They got back to me quickly with a solution to both problems within a few hours, and then explained another couple of questions I had about power connections.
It seems to now be working, and it is a relatively good-looking package. I worried a lot (probably too much) about whether to get this PID or the smaller-enclosure version from Auber. Obviously, I went with this one, but it really doesn’t have wasted space, so it feels like a good sizing.
I feel like I know my Gaggia better now, and it feels more like a tool I really own and can maintain myself, rather than just another piece of technology that is beyond my ability to understand or repair.

Cons:

Despite my feeling of understanding for the Gaggia, my understanding of the PID is still pretty lacking, and that feels a piece of tech that is beyond my ability to fix. If it breaks, I will probably have to replace it or reverse the install completely.
This was a genuinely frustrating experience. Most of the connections in the Gaggia require both finesse and strength to undo. There is very little space to move for many of them, and things are really stuck in place. A long flathead screwdriver is definitely essential for prying apart the power connections. A good magnetic screwdriver is helpful, though I wish I had a stronger magnet in mine.
Honestly, I feel kind of cheated by the marketing of the installation process. The sales page says, “Installation usually takes most people around 2-3hrs and requires only basic tools.” I understand that this metric probably has to be stated in order to compete with Auber, who makes a similar claim but probably doesn’t provide much of a different installation experience. I tracked my time, and it took me a bit over 9 hours. The Reddit post linked about says they had no problems, but it took about 5 hours, and they hadn’t yet gotten the lid to close correctly (dealing with this issue took me over an hour). A YouTube channel I enjoy says that it took them 10 hours. I suspect that to finish this in 2–3 hours, you would have to be very familiar with the process already. Like ... now could probably do it in 3 hours, if I had to.
The support is good, but if the manual were better ... the support maybe wouldn’t be as necessary? I know that making the perfect manual is easier wished for than done, though.
The PID takes a bit of configuration, post-installation. It’s not that bad (much more pleasant than the physical installation process, and better documented), but it adds probably 30–45 minutes of extra time to the overall process, and I didn’t realize that it wouldn’t come pre-configured.
As the install took a lot longer than expected, I ended up wondering whether I should have just gotten a different machine, with a PID pre-installed. A reason I got a Gaggia is that I like the design, and with a PID, it seems to be a machine that is as good as things that cost around $1000. But, the machine is $450, and then (with shipping to the US) this PID is about $175. Not counting the accessories (because those are needed for any machine), that’s a minimum of $625. But then, I spent 9–10 hours installing the PID, and now I’m left uncertain whether it will really operate as expected for the long term, or whether it could somehow malfunction and cause bigger problems. It would certainly be possible to mess up this install partway through – and then be stuck either reversing things or buying a replacement kit to try again. I’m currently very uncertain whether I made the right decision (going with the Gaggia + PID), and I don’t think I’d make the same choice if I were to start from scratch.

More on install time
I am fairly competent at technical things: In the past, I’ve done a bit of soldering for keyboard projects, I’ve done some basic woodworking, I’ve replaced an iPhone battery, and I am intermediate at programming in Python & coding websites with HTML, CSS, and JS frameworks. I’m nothing special, but I can generally follow instructions and figure things out. Then again, a lot of what I do allows me to experiment and Google any problems that arise. This install is a bit of a different beast.
It’s hard to say how much of the difficulty would really be possible to solve in the manual versus how much is innately part of assembling a DIY electronics project. I did skim the contents first to get a sense of how the process was structured, but it is pretty hard for me to fully understand technical things without working along with the process. So, it was partly on me, but I had multiple times where a critical detail was under-emphasized or pointed out too late in the manual.
There are two main reasons the install takes a long time:

As stated above, Mr. Shades does not have a simple task in providing the kit + manual + support, with changes and variability from Gaggia. Added to this, the Gaggia itself just has lots of fiddly bits that are difficult to work with.
The manual is out of date or out of sync in small but meaningful ways. It is quite good in many ways, but this is a complex process, and the instructions leave parts out and gloss over others. Probably over half the time this install took was due to things that I nearly completed, only to have to reverse and redo. Lots of things need to be done in a certain order, and it’s not always clear what that is until you’ve gone (much) too far. For most of them, proper photos and better ordering of instructions probably would have prevented the mistakes. It sounds like they are updating it, but I’m still kind of salty that they sold me a device with an outdated manual.

Tips

Don’t attempt this without the proper tools. It would be very, very difficult to do with something like a bike multitool (I tried this before getting out a full assortment of tools). For me, a flathead screwdriver was essential, even though it’s labeled as optional.
Approach this as the serious project it is. Have patience and take this on as a doable but relatively involved DIY electronics project. Also, set up at a good workspace – try to have good daytime lighting, no distractions, and hopefully good sitting/standing options. I spent a silly amount of time on this at a dining table before moving to my proper desk. Like anything else, a better workspace makes the work better.
A very helpful thing for me was having a couple of rolls of tape: some strong blue painter’s tape to hold things in place while working on them, and some light masking/washi tape to write labels on when having to undo and redo things.
Specific tips that will save you a lot of time:
- The PID enclosure splits apart, which is helpful so it can be assembled over top of the PID even after things are connected. But, the front and back plate were much simpler to accurately screw on after taping the enclosure together on the sides, in alignment. Use tape!
- Make sure to put the cables through not only the grommet but also the enclosure backplate before attaching them to the PID. Otherwise, you will have to undo the connections and string it through. Also make sure you have it facing the right way (with screw countersinks facing outward), or again, you will have to disconnect things and string them through again.
- There is a yellow & green grounding cable, with a fork on one end and loop on the other. Make sure the fork goes inside the Gaggia, and the loop is left to use in the PID enclosure. This is not made clear in the manual, and seems to not matter almost until the very end of the installation process – but then it does.
- Probably, try to read fully through each section before working through them. Read it through and visually plan it out before actually disconnecting or connecting things. I am not very good at this, but I would have tried harder had I realized quite how essential it was. Moving slowly at this process probably saves time in the end.
- It is very tempting to put together the casing before you have done all the steps, but really, don’t do this until you are quite sure that things are working. Stick very closely to the ordering of the manual’s sections, or you will have to backtrack.
- If you are just about to install the device, realize that the manual (as of February 2021) recommends a position for the Brew SSR that will not allow the Gaggia lid to close. If the manual you read says to place the SSR above the power plug, it is outdated – email support for a corrected set of photos.
- When you are installing the thermostat in the boiler, just unscrew and remove the entire steam wand. You don’t even have to unclip this – it will literally come all the way out through the top, and it’s easy to put back in. It will help give you a very necessary extra bit of room to work.

Initial PID experience & current thoughts
Even after the “auto-tune” process and with a warmed-up machine, the display does seem to quickly jump around within maybe +0.5 to +3°C of the target. This probably isn’t such a bad thing, and I suspect it’s just very accurately reporting the temperatures as it is reading & responding to them. As an initial experience, though, it isn’t as smooth or reassuring as I had expected it to be. But, I’m guessing that, once I get used to it, I will appreciate the deep configurability and clarity of the device. It feels like kind of an “expert” tool, rather than a dumbed-down kitchen appliance. That is pretty cool, provided it works in the long run.
Now that I have actually installed this, I am pretty excited about making espresso with it, and I hope that it saves me time on temperature surfing while getting more consistent results. I am quite excited to have more machine capabilities to experiment with! The first 5 or so shots I’ve pulled with it have been consistent and really nice.
Would I recommend it to most people? Not really. Will I be glad I did it, a month or a year from now? I’m pretty optimistic about that. Fingers crossed!

Console Update 10.2 – Patch Notes

Cyberpunk Tips and Tricks

I have read dozens of these threads for dozens of games over the years but never bothered to write one myself. Nothing especially exciting is coming up on Google for Cyberpunk yet, so I figured I might as well give back to the community, so to speak. So, here are a list of tips and tricks for new players. Many of these may not stay true as CDPR patches the game but they're up to date as of 1.06.
If you have stuff I missed, throw it in the comments and I'll try to edit it in. And if I'm wrong, correct me! I'm not an expert, just a fan. Some of this stuff is a matter of opinion, playing "optimally" is a bias of mine that not everyone may share. You may want to beat the whole game hacking everything in sight with 5 intelligence (good luck lol). This is just as valid a playstyle as being a min-maxing degenerate like me, the point is to have fun :)
Attributes:
- The game files tell you that you get an attribute point every three levels. This is a damn lie. You get one every level. By level 50, which you can attain well before beating the game, you can raise three stats to 20 with 4 points left over.
- You can have an attribute up to 20 by level 15. Game's level cap is 50.
-Body and Technical Ability both let you open doors. DIFFERENT doors. It's rare that they'll both work on the same door. If you wanna open every door, you should max 'em both out. That said, this is mostly just for bonus loot, so it's not mandatory.
- Every attribute has perks enough for a viable build, though technical ability can be rough going. You should consider leveling one skill to 20 before you start leveling another because the high level perks in many of these trees are bonkers. The two exceptions to this are "Breach Protocol" under intelligence and "Crafting" under technical ability. Good, but not necessarily your best first priority.
For example, at the end of the blades tree is a perk that makes you do double damage to enemies with full health (at rank 3) and another perk that increases the damage you do by 3% per 1% health the enemy is missing. So assuming it works as described (big if, lol) if you take 50% of an enemy's health off with your opening strike, you'll do 150% bonus damage. Throw in the bleeding effects and you'll be ginsu knifing your way to victory in no time.
- Attribute pairings: Some attributes have a bunch of synergies. For example, Cool synergizes well with Reflex for blades, sniper or silent pistol builds. Cool also synergizes relatively well with Quickhacking. Technical Ability pairs well with Reflex because the engineering tree buffs smart weapons and tech weapons - though there are some tech shotguns, which pair with Body, most guns are buffed by the Reflex trees.
Comparatively, Technical Ability has less to offer a melee build - stealth melee should be Reflex and Cool, while 'charge TF in' melee benefits from Body and Reflex.
- If you want to craft, you need to raise technical ability to 18 for best effect. If you want to use tech weapons, take it to 20. Quickhacks are crafted in their own tree, and are not a part of normal crafting.
- Not much advice here overall because it's mostly a matter of playstyle. You wanna have a dude with 13 in every attribute? They'll be a great all-rounder. Wanna specialize? You'll get some outrageous power perks.
Skills + Perks:
- Skills level as you use them although Athletics is currently really hard to level apart from some buggy stuff. The other slightly counter-intuitive skill to level is engineering which levels when you deactivate cameras manually, need to be standing very close to them. You can also level it by firing tech weapons through walls and by using grenades.
- Perks level as you put points into them. You get one perk point whenever you level up. ~~You get perk points as you level skills (7 per skill tree, if you get it high enough~~). edit: Crafting, Breach & Quickhacking have 6 for some reason.
There are also a number of 'perk shards' that give you free perks.
- To buy a perk, you need to have a high enough level in the associated attribute. All skill trees have at least one perk that requires 20 in the associated attribute (Body, Reflex, etc). Sometimes that perk is just ok, but sometimes it's bonkers powerful. Take the time to read the trees. Basically all builds are viable right now so I don't have any "best" build tips, just level one attribute to 20 and then figure out which one you wanna do next.
- Skills cannot level past their associated attribute. For example, Blades is in the Reflex tree. If you have Reflex 4, it doesn't matter if you vivisect every enemy in the game, you will level to blades 4 and stop there until you raise Reflex to 5. This is one of the reasons it makes sense to level an attribute to 20 ASAP. Keep an eye on the skills you wanna use all game - if they stop gaining experience, you need to bump the attribute.
-Leveling skills will reward you with bonuses. Sometimes the bonus makes you better at the skill (for example, reducing recoil on a kind of gun). But each skill tree has (afaik) 7 "bonus" perks in it. This means that there are more total perks available to characters who level Body and Reflex (which each have three associated skills) as opposed to other attributes (which only have 2).
- Every tree has some ridiculous skills that are must-have, and some that are useless. One or two are even actively harmful, like the one that automatically disassembles junk. Some junk sells for 750 ED, so scrapping it automatically robs you. Avoid that perk (it's in Crafting).
edit: Matter of opinion. There's a lot of junk in this game and if you're speccing into crafting, you can easily make money, so taking the 'scrap all junk' perk can save some time. Ultimately the only junk you need to scrap is the cans you buy from vending machines, which (with the current UI) is the fastest way apart from using the perk. Your mileage may vary.
-If you read through the skills it's pretty obvious which ones are awesome; usually it's a huge buff to damage or crit chance. They give out crit chance like candy in this game.
- It's worth making sure that your primary combat skill (pistols, blades, etc) is always capped - so if you have 10 reflex, you should have 10 in blades. This way you'll get the most from the perk system, but also have 'best' fighting style at your disposal. The game gives you all these great playstyles but in my experience, if you don't level them, they become progressively less useful.
- You can respec perks for 100,000 ED. This will not reset your attributes. 100,000 ED will always be a stupid amount of money. You're better off just farming up some more perk points and spending them.
- There is always an ultimate perk unlocked when you reach 20 in the skill (need 20 in the attribute first). These are enigmatic and poorly worded. To be clear, they give you an up front buff of varying quality. Then you can keep putting points in them generally for a 1% buff. I haven't doubled checked all of them, but after that first rank, it's highly unlikely you'd ever want to put another point into them.
- Cold blood makes you good at everything, a little bit. It's in Cool, so it's most efficient to pair it with pistol sneak or blade sneak, but really you can go hog wild. It has some preposterous bonuses.
- You will never need to swim underwater AFAIK so ignore that perk.
Weapons
- All builds are viable and so are all weapons. Still, I think they put shotguns and lmgs in the same tree because the range on shotguns isn't optimal and they are not sneaky weapons. I'd carry one of both, and I also carried a pistol, a sniper rifle and an assault rifle on my Reflex build, though this spread me a little thin.
- Weapons come in a tiered system: common (grey) uncommon (green), rare (blue), epic (purple) and legendary (orange.) Wonder if they'll pay Blizzard royalties. If anyone will, really.
- There are also iconic weapons. They can usually be upgraded to legendary, but not always (RIP Lizzie pistol). This costs a lot of mats. But not as much as upgrading a level 40 gun to a level 41 gun.
- Using crafting to upgrade weapons is so expensive / tedious that you should just craft new weapons instead. You should also keep your Iconic weapons at the rarity you find them, and upgrade them to level 50 at the lowest possible rarity, to save on mats.
- You can have three weapons (plus unarmed / gorilla arms) equipped at once.
- Power weapons can ricochet and are most common. Tech weapons can charge and shoot through walls. They discharge automatically at full charge until you get an engineering perk to fix that. This makes them WAY more useful.
- Smart weapons paint dots on a target and then they'll hit the target. The dots (little and red) need to appear before you start firing. If they do, the bullets may even hit around corners or cover. If you don't, the bullets are wasted.
- You can craft ammo. The carry limit is high, 400 pistol, 700 rifle, 100 snipeshotgun on PS4 according to u/Eggtastic_Taco, I thought I'd had 500 pistol ammo on PC before but IDK.
- Weapons can be modded. Replacing a mod destroys it. Scrapping a weapon destroys the mod unless you have a perk (from crafting.) The perk is worth it. Modding weapons is generally worth it. I wouldn't bother putting a silencer on a pistol.
edit: As withoutapaddle points out, silencers are awesome if you are speccing into them, generally with a Reflex / Cool build focused around pistols. You can easily overcome the damage debuff, especially with the rare silencer, where the debuff is only 15%.
Armor
- There's no transmog so you're gonna look ridiculous until endgame, and maybe then too.
- Armor seemed to me like it made little difference til I passed 4000 armor, at which point I became an unkillable tank. Main appeal of crafting, IMO.
- But mods can make a big difference by buffing critical damage, critical chance, etc. Also plenty of useless mods (breathe underwater longer).
- You can pick up resistance to damage types, and even immunity, from item mods - but also from certain perks and cyberware.
- Armor can be iconic too, though far less often. Same advice from iconic weapons applies.
Hacking
- Not much to say here - use breach protocol to debuff enemies and make quickhacks cheaper. Many quickhacks are non lethal.
- Quickhacking costs RAM. It recharges out of combat, and in combat with the right perk.
- The game teaches you this in an optional tutorial but it is VERY important: you can quickhack people while seeing them through cameras. And when you do, they can't do a damn thing about it. They can't detect you unless they see you IRL. So hack a camera from across the street, cycle through their camera network killin' em all. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Crafting
- When you craft an item, it randomly has mods (or maybe none) and randomly has mod slots. Far as I can tell, 4 is the maximum number of mod slots. Mods are fairly easy to come by, and some of them are ludicrously OP (Can find 6 15% crit chance mods and have 100% effective crit, I think).
- But they're random! So you may need to craft and recraft those legendary pants until you get one with 4 mod slots. edit: max 4 for torso slots, max 3 for everything else
- Crafting in general is broken in good ways and bad. The main tip is that you can scrap drinks, but not food, for some reason. So go to every drink machine you see and buy them out of drinks (10 ED a drink). Then scrap all the drinks for common and uncommon components. Craft a bunch of uncommon sniper rifles, sell them to a merchant, repeat til you're at 20 crafting. Good way to make money too.
- As mentioned above, upgrading things is expensive as hell, though at higher levels it also gives you huge chunks of crafting XP all at once.
edit: When you upgrade an iconic item, it seems to reset the cost of components to upgrade it again, and as a bonus, raises it to one level below yours. So if you don't want to farm mats forever, consider waiting til you're level 50 before raising your Iconic gear to Legendary status. Then you'll only need to upgrade it once.
- Items can only be crafted one at a time but you can edit a config file to make that happen instantly. This'll get patched, I hope.
- There are crafting specs scattered through the world. The best ones are usually free from drops but you might buy one for a niche build.
Here's a mod table, h/t to u/theherrhuml

Work and Stack	Armadillo, Backpacker, Osmosis, Plume
Work but Don't Stack	Fortuna, Bully
Work	Coolit, Antivenom, Superinsulator - not for EMP, Panacea
Don't Work	Deadeye, Predator, Resist, Zero Drag

Cyberware
- It'll make you a beast. It's the main use for 'street cred', too, a system that barely needs explaining. Kill dudes, get street cred, unlock new Cyberware. Other stuff too but mostly pretty pointless by comparison. The best cyberware requires 49 street cred; the cap is 50.
- The wrist mounted missile launcher is sick but it also seems to disable the use of grenades (mapped to the same hotkey on my controller anyway). The missiles, however, are bottomless.
edit: Probably my biggest error here. I thought my grenade option had disappeared, but you can switch grenades into the slot if you want. If I'm understanding u/theherrhuml correctly, this means you can't use both at once? IDK.
- Slowing time is very handy. The synaptic accelerator does it when you are spotted by an enemy. A must for sneak builds. Sandevistan slows time when activated. Mostly useful for combat but you can also rush right past enemies (but be aware that slow time means doors open slow too). There's also Kereznikov, which slows time when you dodge, slide or do some other stuff idk man, I forget. Obvious combat applications.
- Your initial cyberware lets you hack. The cyberware in the OS slot, to be specific. If you replace it with a Sandevistan model, or a Berserk, you will lose the ability to hack. The game does a very poor job of warning you of this. It SUCKS to suddenly not be able to turn off cameras by hacking them.
- Cyberware has mod slots. Maybe this explain this at one point but it's easy to forget. You'll find lots of cyberware mods in any case.
- If you're using quickhacking, most quickhacks have to be equipped in your deck, which goes in the OS slot. They have their own parallel crafting system which is under Intelligence. They'll make you a cybergod among men.
- Overall cyberware is meant to compliment your build. Wanna do blades? Mantis blades go in the arm slot. Wanna hack? Buy the best OS. Don't care about hacking? Stick a Sandevistan or Berserk in there and shoot / chop your enemies to bits. The monowire, counter-intuitively, is a 'blunt' weapon and benefits from the associated perks, as well as being buffed by cool.
- Double jump, or charge jump, are mandatory. Why wouldn't you want the high ground, as Ben Kenobi taught us?
- Like I said, it compliments your playstyle, so it also gates the best cyberware behind attribute requirements. 20 body nets you an implant that gives +60% health, which is huge. You'll never be able to equip all the "best" cyberware, but you'll have what's best for your build.
- Every ripperdoc has a specialty, but they don't always have their legendary quality item. This is kinda annoying because it's one of a number of easter egg hunts they implement for buying stuff, real MMO tier game design. I have the money, gimme the damn thing. Anyway, check the internet for guides on where to buy legendary cyberware.
Questing + Side Content
- Personally I'd recommend finishing all the side content in Watson (the first area, in which you are trapped) before proceeding to Konpecki (you'll know when you know.) This gives you a lot of tools in your toolbox for a pretty challenging series of missions, and give you lots of practice playing the game .- Alternatively, there's little punishment for burning through all the story content up to the final mission, and in fact, no real punishment for beating the final mission as soon as it's available. The game just drops you right back before the final mission, so that you can unlock the other endings. Up to you.
edit: A certain Hollywood actor shows up to make commentary on your quests once you finish Act 1, including quests in Watson. So depending on how thirsty for Keanu you are, consider holding off on doing sidequests in Watson until after Act 1.
- Like the Witcher, the story quests are worth way more experience, so if you're in a hurry to level then get after it.
- If you bought this game because of the political dimensions of Cyberpunk then READ THE SHARDS. All of them. Great stuff in there. If you bought it for pew pew lasers, then only read the shards with smutty titles, they're funny.
- The level design's pretty good. Often I'll finish a dungeon only to notice that there was a sneaky back way in that I never even noticed because I didn't bother looking. Of course, with double jump, you can usually make your OWN way in.
- Overall, the level design combined with the shards made even clearing reported crimes fun for me all the way through to endgame. I highly recommend doing most of the sidequests ( hear racing sucks which checks out because driving sucks ). Also clear all the organized crime bosses because they drop awesome loot.
Cars
- You can get a free Caliburn, one of the game's fastest cars, in the Badlands, hard to explain so just google the video.- Fixers will text you about cars they have for sale. This sucks. The cars then show up as quest markers. This also sucks. You do not need to buy all the cars (could be fun to do so), any one car will suffice.
- Motorcycles are great. They can ride in the gutters or down the center line of roads, totally ignoring traffic.
- If you park your car in the road it creates a traffic jam.
- Look both ways before you cross the street.
- You can steal cars but there's not much reason to since you can call your own car to your location.
Misc
- Some missions require you not kill anyone. You can easily get an implant mod that makes all your weapon damage non-lethal. This allows you to never worry about this again. You very rarely get in trouble for bringing someone in alive; apart from some flavor commentary IDK if it's ever happened to me. Alternatively, you can use blunt weapons or certain quickhacks.
- Pay Vic back. Partially to upgrade your eyeballs but mostly because it's the right thing to do for a friend.
- In general, dialogue checks relating to your attributes are there for flavor so you can use them with impunity, but without material reward.
- Street cred: literally just kill criminals and do quests and it'll level faster than your character level. I hit 50 SC around level 30, as I recall. That unlocks the best cyberware and the highest level gigs, then there's no reason to think about it ever again.
- If you possibly can, wait 2 years for the finished version of this game with all the DLCs. I love it, but I think it'd be more fun to experience the finished product fresh. I only played Witcher 3 last year and it was amazing.
- There are free legendary mantis blades and a free legendary monowire kicking around in the game world.
- Don't let Cyberpsychos or other bosses hit you in melee, obvs.
- Those little icons over people's heads at the beginning of the game are telling you that you can fight them but also how difficult they are. I spent an hour trying to figure this out when I bought the game, lol.
- Cops will aggro if you get too close for too long. Gangs will aggro if you get too close usually.
That's it for now! Let me know what I missed.
Thanks for updates from: u/theherrhuml, Eggtastic_Taco, withoutapaddle

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How to Win at Slots: Tips to Improve Your Chances of Winning

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CMV: The stock market is hardly a step above casino gambling and negatively influences companies who they support. (r/WSB’s opinion encouraged!)

Lessons I learnt the long/hard way, so you don't have to.

A Bow Guide - For all Levels

Accuracy and Stability

Lightweights

The String and Masterwork

Precision Frames

The String and Masterwork

Legendary Damage Numbers and Perks

Lightweight Frames

Precision Frames

Exotic Damage Numbers

Vorpal Weapon (Precision Frame) Damage Numbers

The Reticle and Draw Length

Builds

Get Down Mr President

But I am the shotgun...

Thomas the Siege Engine

Wrath of Cupid

Corrosive Sting

A Hunger For Wishes

After completing my build last week I want to share the story of all the mistakes I made so you can avoid them

R/Bujo’s Top Tips on How to Plan When You Have Severe Depression/Impaired Functioning

WHAT TO FOCUS ON

THE METHOD (SPREADS AND STRUCTURE)

MENTAL HEALTH RELATED

ALTERNATIVES

Resources and Recommendations

Learn from my mistakes. I got a job, but it took me a year, 1100+ applications, and failing 11 final interviews. Here is what you don't do while job searching.

Version 1.1.0

Major Features

Features

Minor Features

Graphics

Optimisations

Balancing

Changes

Gui

Sounds

Bugfixes

Modding

Scripting

Some Newb tips I wish I knew earlier

Review of installing the Mr. Shades PID on my Gaggia Classic 2019

Console Update 10.2 – Patch Notes

PUBG GLOBAL INVITATIONAL.S

PGI.S Lobby Update

Other PGI.S Related Updates

New Vehicle: Coupe RB

New Feature: Reputation System

Ranked Mode Update

PUBG LABS: Arena Mode

Schedule

Arena Mode – 2nd Iteration Changes

Gameplay

Inventory Improvements

QoL Improvements

Performance

Skin & Item

Bugfix

Cyberpunk Tips and Tricks

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